wiki_rewrite: paginate fully + extend rewriter to wikivoyage (#29)

The Twin Falls Wikivoyage investigation surfaced two coordinated gaps that kept
OSM wikivoyage tags from rewriting to local Kiwix URLs even though the
wikivoyage ZIM is loaded and serving.

Fix 1 (pagination) -- wiki_rewrite.py: append ?count=-1 to the Kiwix OPDS catalog
fetch. kiwix-serve's /catalog/v2/entries defaults to the first 10 entries; the
library has 17, so wikivoyage (and other page-2 ZIMs) were never seen by
_discover_zims and never entered _zim_map, so their tags always fell back to public.

Fix 2 (tag passthrough) -- place_detail.py: add wikivoyage to both nominatim
extratags whitelists, mirroring the existing wikipedia/wikidata lines. The
rewriter (classify_wiki_link / build_kiwix_url / rewrite_wiki_link) and the
_enrich_wiki_links loop were already source_type-generic and covered wikivoyage;
the only missing link was that the nominatim parser dropped the wikivoyage tag
before enrichment ever saw it. No rewriter refactor was needed.

Tests (test_place.py):
- test_catalog_url_requests_full_library: the OPDS fetch URL contains count=-1.
- test_wikivoyage_tag_rewrites_to_local: a wikivoyage OSM tag for a mirrored
  article rewrites to https://wiki.echo6.co/content/wikivoyage_en_all_maxi_<date>/...
  with sources.wiki_rewrites.wikivoyage == "local" (Kiwix mocked).
Full navi-places suite: 15 passed.

Follow-up (separate ops step, not in this PR): prune 3 dangling library.xml
entries on the Kiwix host (wikiloc.com_eng_2026-04_18, meshtastic.org_eng_2026-04_14,
meshtastic.org_eng_2026-04_15) whose ZIM files are absent; kiwix-serve silently
skips them.

Note: Twin Falls (R/121355) itself has no OSM wikivoyage tag, so it still will not
get a local Wikivoyage link from tag rewrite -- that needs the separate name-based
discovery feature (discover_wikivoyage_article stub).

Co-authored-by: Matt <mj@k7zvx.com>
Co-authored-by: Claude Opus 4.7 (1M context) <noreply@anthropic.com>

backend/services/navi_places/place_detail.py

@@ -291,6 +291,7 @@ def _parse_nominatim(data):
         'email': raw_extra.get('email') or raw_extra.get('contact:email'),
         'wikipedia': raw_extra.get('wikipedia'),
         'wikidata': raw_extra.get('wikidata'),
+        'wikivoyage': raw_extra.get('wikivoyage'),
         'cuisine': raw_extra.get('cuisine'),
         'operator': raw_extra.get('operator'),
         'wheelchair': raw_extra.get('wheelchair'),
@@ -376,6 +377,7 @@ def _parse_overpass(data, osm_type, osm_id):
         'email': tags.get('email') or tags.get('contact:email'),
         'wikipedia': tags.get('wikipedia'),
         'wikidata': tags.get('wikidata'),
+        'wikivoyage': tags.get('wikivoyage'),
         'cuisine': tags.get('cuisine'),
         'operator': tags.get('operator'),
         'wheelchair': tags.get('wheelchair'),

backend/services/navi_places/tests/test_place.py

@@ -181,6 +181,40 @@ def test_wiki_rewrite_original_passes_through(tmp_path, monkeypatch):
     assert 'wikipedia' not in d.get('sources', {}).get('wiki_rewrites', {})
 
 
+def test_catalog_url_requests_full_library():
+    # Fix 1: the OPDS fetch must pull the whole library (kiwix-serve defaults to the
+    # first 10 entries, which hid wikivoyage and other page-2 ZIMs from discovery).
+    from services.navi_places import wiki_rewrite
+    assert 'count=-1' in wiki_rewrite.KIWIX_CATALOG_URL
+
+
+def test_wikivoyage_tag_rewrites_to_local(tmp_path, monkeypatch):
+    # Fix 2: a wikivoyage OSM tag for a mirrored article rewrites to a local Kiwix
+    # URL via the same source_type-generic path as wikipedia. Kiwix is mocked: the
+    # ZIM map is seeded with the wikivoyage book and the HEAD probe returns 200.
+    monkeypatch.setenv('NAVI_PLACE_CACHE_DB', str(tmp_path / 'pc.db'))
+    monkeypatch.setenv('NAVI_WIKI_CACHE_DB', str(tmp_path / 'wiki_cache.db'))
+    _flags(monkeypatch, enabled=('has_wiki_rewriting',))
+
+    wr = pd.wiki_rewrite
+    wr.reset()
+    monkeypatch.setattr(wr, '_ensure_zim_map', lambda: None)
+    monkeypatch.setattr(wr, '_zim_map', {'wikivoyage': 'wikivoyage_en_all_maxi_2026-03'})
+
+    class FakeKiwixHTTP:
+        def head(self, url, **kw):
+            return FakeResp(200)
+    monkeypatch.setattr(wr, 'http_requests', FakeKiwixHTTP())
+
+    nom = {**NOMINATIM_CAFE, 'extratags': {'wikivoyage': 'en:Twin Falls'}}
+    monkeypatch.setattr(pd, 'http_requests', FakeHTTP(get=lambda url, **kw: FakeResp(200, nom)))
+
+    d = create_app().test_client().get('/api/place/W/123').get_json()
+    assert d['extratags']['wikivoyage'] == \
+        'https://wiki.echo6.co/content/wikivoyage_en_all_maxi_2026-03/Twin_Falls'
+    assert d['sources']['wiki_rewrites']['wikivoyage'] == 'local'
+
+
 # ── wiki index summary via local wiki_index.db ──
 
 def test_wiki_enrich_via_local_db_merges_fields(tmp_path, monkeypatch):

backend/services/navi_places/wiki_rewrite.py

@@ -33,7 +33,10 @@ logger = logging.getLogger('navi_places.wiki_rewrite')
 
 KIWIX_BASE = os.environ.get('NAVI_KIWIX_BASE_URL', 'http://localhost:8430')
 KIWIX_PUBLIC_BASE = os.environ.get('NAVI_KIWIX_PUBLIC_BASE', 'https://wiki.echo6.co')
-KIWIX_CATALOG_URL = f"{KIWIX_BASE}/catalog/v2/entries"
+# count=-1 returns the full library; kiwix-serve OPDS defaults to only the first
+# 10 entries, which silently hid ZIMs past page 1 (e.g. wikivoyage) from
+# _discover_zims so their tags never rewrote to local.
+KIWIX_CATALOG_URL = f"{KIWIX_BASE}/catalog/v2/entries?count=-1"
 HEAD_TIMEOUT = 1.5  # seconds
 CATALOG_REFRESH_INTERVAL = 3600  # 1 hour