diff --git a/package-lock.json b/package-lock.json
index fd4e1c8..682949c 100644
--- a/package-lock.json
+++ b/package-lock.json
@@ -13,6 +13,7 @@
         "@dnd-kit/utilities": "^3.2.2",
         "lucide-react": "^1.8.0",
         "maplibre-gl": "^5.23.0",
+        "opening_hours": "^3.12.0",
         "pmtiles": "^4.4.1",
         "protomaps-themes-base": "^4.5.0",
         "react": "^19.2.5",
@@ -241,6 +242,15 @@
         "node": ">=6.0.0"
       }
     },
+    "node_modules/@babel/runtime": {
+      "version": "7.29.2",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@babel/runtime/-/runtime-7.29.2.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-JiDShH45zKHWyGe4ZNVRrCjBz8Nh9TMmZG1kh4QTK8hCBTWBi8Da+i7s1fJw7/lYpM4ccepSNfqzZ/QvABBi5g==",
+      "license": "MIT",
+      "engines": {
+        "node": ">=6.9.0"
+      }
+    },
     "node_modules/@babel/template": {
       "version": "7.28.6",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/@babel/template/-/template-7.28.6.tgz",
@@ -2151,6 +2161,37 @@
         "hermes-estree": "0.25.1"
       }
     },
+    "node_modules/i18next": {
+      "version": "25.10.10",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/i18next/-/i18next-25.10.10.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-cqUW2Z3EkRx7NqSyywjkgCLK7KLCL6IFVFcONG7nVYIJ3ekZ1/N5jUsihHV6Bq37NfhgtczxJcxduELtjTwkuQ==",
+      "funding": [
+        {
+          "type": "individual",
+          "url": "https://www.locize.com/i18next"
+        },
+        {
+          "type": "individual",
+          "url": "https://www.i18next.com/how-to/faq#i18next-is-awesome.-how-can-i-support-the-project"
+        },
+        {
+          "type": "individual",
+          "url": "https://www.locize.com"
+        }
+      ],
+      "license": "MIT",
+      "dependencies": {
+        "@babel/runtime": "^7.29.2"
+      },
+      "peerDependencies": {
+        "typescript": "^5 || ^6"
+      },
+      "peerDependenciesMeta": {
+        "typescript": {
+          "optional": true
+        }
+      }
+    },
     "node_modules/ignore": {
       "version": "5.3.2",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/ignore/-/ignore-5.3.2.tgz",
@@ -2746,6 +2787,19 @@
       "dev": true,
       "license": "MIT"
     },
+    "node_modules/opening_hours": {
+      "version": "3.12.0",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/opening_hours/-/opening_hours-3.12.0.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-8XVwJUyZVIDObb5OF2DoB+WShGL9RVZRKIevgHOqwPeu0acRx5akruOSmXHZZw2qUTqEjbneZG3REcyvr5yHiQ==",
+      "license": "LGPL-3.0-only",
+      "dependencies": {
+        "i18next": "^25.8.13",
+        "suncalc": "^1.9.0"
+      },
+      "engines": {
+        "node": ">=12"
+      }
+    },
     "node_modules/optionator": {
       "version": "0.9.4",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/optionator/-/optionator-0.9.4.tgz",
@@ -3117,6 +3171,11 @@
         "url": "https://github.com/sponsors/sindresorhus"
       }
     },
+    "node_modules/suncalc": {
+      "version": "1.9.0",
+      "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/suncalc/-/suncalc-1.9.0.tgz",
+      "integrity": "sha512-vMJ8Byp1uIPoj+wb9c1AdK4jpkSKVAywgHX0lqY7zt6+EWRRC3Z+0Ucfjy/0yxTVO1hwwchZe4uoFNqrIC24+A=="
+    },
     "node_modules/supercluster": {
       "version": "8.0.1",
       "resolved": "https://registry.npmjs.org/supercluster/-/supercluster-8.0.1.tgz",
diff --git a/package.json b/package.json
index b2ae015..9faab00 100644
--- a/package.json
+++ b/package.json
@@ -15,6 +15,7 @@
     "@dnd-kit/utilities": "^3.2.2",
     "lucide-react": "^1.8.0",
     "maplibre-gl": "^5.23.0",
+    "opening_hours": "^3.12.0",
     "pmtiles": "^4.4.1",
     "protomaps-themes-base": "^4.5.0",
     "react": "^19.2.5",
diff --git a/src/api.js.bak.viewport b/src/api.js.bak.viewport
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..35d724b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/api.js.bak.viewport
@@ -0,0 +1,262 @@
+const GEOCODE_URL = '/api/geocode'
+const VALHALLA_URL = '/valhalla/route'
+const VALHALLA_OPTIMIZED_URL = '/valhalla/optimized_route'
+const VALHALLA_HEIGHT_URL = '/valhalla/height'
+
+/**
+ * Search geocode API with abort support.
+ * @param {string} query
+ * @param {number} limit
+ * @param {AbortSignal} signal
+ * @returns {Promise<{query, results, count}>}
+ */
+export async function searchGeocode(query, limit = 6, signal) {
+  const params = new URLSearchParams({ q: query, limit: String(limit) })
+  const resp = await fetch(`${GEOCODE_URL}?${params}`, { signal, timeout: 5000 })
+  if (!resp.ok) throw new Error(`Geocode error: ${resp.status}`)
+  return resp.json()
+}
+
+/**
+ * Request a route from Valhalla.
+ * @param {Array<{lat, lon}>} locations
+ * @param {string} costing - 'auto' | 'pedestrian' | 'bicycle'
+ * @returns {Promise<object>} Valhalla trip response
+ */
+export async function requestRoute(locations, costing = 'auto') {
+  const body = {
+    locations: locations.map((l) => ({ lat: l.lat, lon: l.lon })),
+    costing,
+    units: 'miles',
+    directions_options: { units: 'miles' },
+  }
+
+  const controller = new AbortController()
+  const timeout = setTimeout(() => controller.abort(), 30000)
+
+  try {
+    const resp = await fetch(VALHALLA_URL, {
+      method: 'POST',
+      headers: { 'Content-Type': 'application/json' },
+      body: JSON.stringify(body),
+      signal: controller.signal,
+    })
+
+    if (!resp.ok) {
+      const errBody = await resp.json().catch(() => ({}))
+      throw new Error(errBody.error || errBody.status_message || `Route error: ${resp.status}`)
+    }
+
+    return resp.json()
+  } finally {
+    clearTimeout(timeout)
+  }
+}
+
+/**
+ * Request an optimized route from Valhalla.
+ * @param {Array<{lat, lon}>} locations
+ * @param {string} costing
+ * @returns {Promise<object>} Valhalla optimized trip response
+ */
+export async function requestOptimizedRoute(locations, costing = 'auto') {
+  const body = {
+    locations: locations.map((l) => ({ lat: l.lat, lon: l.lon })),
+    costing,
+    units: 'miles',
+    directions_options: { units: 'miles' },
+  }
+
+  const controller = new AbortController()
+  const timeout = setTimeout(() => controller.abort(), 30000)
+
+  try {
+    const resp = await fetch(VALHALLA_OPTIMIZED_URL, {
+      method: 'POST',
+      headers: { 'Content-Type': 'application/json' },
+      body: JSON.stringify(body),
+      signal: controller.signal,
+    })
+
+    if (!resp.ok) {
+      const errBody = await resp.json().catch(() => ({}))
+      throw new Error(errBody.error || errBody.status_message || `Optimize error: ${resp.status}`)
+    }
+
+    return resp.json()
+  } finally {
+    clearTimeout(timeout)
+  }
+}
+
+/**
+ * Fetch elevation for a point via Valhalla height API.
+ * @param {number} lat
+ * @param {number} lon
+ * @returns {Promise<number|null>} Height in meters, or null on error
+ */
+export async function fetchElevation(lat, lon) {
+  try {
+    const resp = await fetch(VALHALLA_HEIGHT_URL, {
+      method: 'POST',
+      headers: { 'Content-Type': 'application/json' },
+      body: JSON.stringify({ shape: [{ lat, lon }], resample_distance: 100 }),
+    })
+    if (!resp.ok) return null
+    const data = await resp.json()
+    if (data.height && data.height.length > 0) return data.height[0]
+    return null
+  } catch {
+    return null
+  }
+}
+
+const REVERSE_URL = "/api/reverse"
+
+/**
+ * Reverse geocode a point. Returns a place object or null.
+ * @param {number} lat
+ * @param {number} lon
+ * @returns {Promise<{lat, lon, name, address, type, source, raw}|null>}
+ */
+export async function fetchReverse(lat, lon) {
+  try {
+    const params = new URLSearchParams({ lat: String(lat), lon: String(lon) })
+    const resp = await fetch(`${REVERSE_URL}?${params}`, { timeout: 5000 })
+    if (!resp.ok) return null
+    const data = await resp.json()
+    if (!data.results || data.results.length === 0) return null
+    const r = data.results[0]
+    return {
+      lat: r.lat,
+      lon: r.lon,
+      name: r.name,
+      address: null,
+      type: r.type,
+      source: r.source,
+      matchCode: null,
+      raw: r.raw || {},
+    }
+  } catch {
+    return null
+  }
+}
+
+
+/**
+ * Fetch drive time between two points via Valhalla route.
+ * @param {number} oLat - Origin latitude
+ * @param {number} oLon - Origin longitude
+ * @param {number} dLat - Destination latitude
+ * @param {number} dLon - Destination longitude
+ * @param {AbortSignal} signal - AbortController signal
+ * @returns {Promise<number|null>} Drive time in seconds, or null on error
+ */
+export async function fetchDriveTime(oLat, oLon, dLat, dLon, signal) {
+  try {
+    const resp = await fetch(VALHALLA_URL, {
+      method: 'POST',
+      headers: { 'Content-Type': 'application/json' },
+      body: JSON.stringify({
+        locations: [{ lat: oLat, lon: oLon }, { lat: dLat, lon: dLon }],
+        costing: 'auto',
+      }),
+      signal,
+    })
+    if (!resp.ok) return null
+    const data = await resp.json()
+    return data.trip?.summary?.time ?? null
+  } catch {
+    return null
+  }
+}
+
+/**
+ * Fetch enriched place details from the place detail proxy.
+ * @param {string} osmType - N, W, or R
+ * @param {number} osmId - OSM element ID
+ * @param {AbortSignal} signal - AbortController signal for cancellation
+ * @returns {Promise<object|null>} Cleaned place detail object, or null on error
+ */
+export async function fetchPlaceDetails(osmType, osmId, signal) {
+  try {
+    const resp = await fetch(`/api/place/${osmType}/${osmId}`, {
+      signal,
+      headers: { 'Accept': 'application/json' },
+    })
+    if (!resp.ok) return null
+    return resp.json()
+  } catch {
+    return null
+  }
+}
+
+// ── Contacts API ──
+
+export async function fetchContacts(signal) {
+  try {
+    const resp = await fetch('/api/contacts', { signal })
+    if (resp.status === 401) return { auth: false }
+    if (!resp.ok) throw new Error(`Contacts error: ${resp.status}`)
+    return resp.json()
+  } catch (e) {
+    if (e.name === 'AbortError') throw e
+    return []
+  }
+}
+
+export async function createContact(data) {
+  const resp = await fetch('/api/contacts', {
+    method: 'POST',
+    headers: { 'Content-Type': 'application/json' },
+    body: JSON.stringify(data),
+  })
+  if (resp.status === 401) return { auth: false }
+  return resp.json().then((d) => ({ ...d, _status: resp.status }))
+}
+
+export async function updateContact(id, data) {
+  const resp = await fetch(`/api/contacts/${id}`, {
+    method: 'PATCH',
+    headers: { 'Content-Type': 'application/json' },
+    body: JSON.stringify(data),
+  })
+  if (resp.status === 401) return { auth: false }
+  return resp.json()
+}
+
+export async function deleteContact(id) {
+  const resp = await fetch(`/api/contacts/${id}`, { method: 'DELETE' })
+  if (resp.status === 401) return { auth: false }
+  return resp.json()
+}
+
+export async function fetchNearbyContacts(lat, lon, radiusM, signal) {
+  try {
+    const params = new URLSearchParams({ lat: String(lat), lon: String(lon), radius_m: String(radiusM) })
+    const resp = await fetch(`/api/contacts/nearby?${params}`, { signal })
+    if (resp.status === 401) return []
+    if (!resp.ok) return []
+    return resp.json()
+  } catch {
+    return []
+  }
+}
+
+/**
+ * Fetch PAD-US land classification for a point.
+ * @param {number} lat
+ * @param {number} lon
+ * @param {AbortSignal} signal
+ * @returns {Promise<object|null>} Classification data or null on error
+ */
+export async function fetchLandclass(lat, lon, signal) {
+  try {
+    const params = new URLSearchParams({ lat: String(lat), lon: String(lon) })
+    const resp = await fetch(`/api/landclass?${params}`, { signal })
+    if (!resp.ok) return null
+    return resp.json()
+  } catch {
+    return null
+  }
+}
diff --git a/src/components/LayerControl.jsx b/src/components/LayerControl.jsx
index 3030d0d..35b2313 100644
--- a/src/components/LayerControl.jsx
+++ b/src/components/LayerControl.jsx
@@ -22,6 +22,8 @@ export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
   const [traffic, setTraffic] = useState(false)
   const [publicLands, setPublicLands] = useState(false)
   const [contours, setContours] = useState(false)
+  const [contoursTest, setContoursTest] = useState(false)
+  const [contoursTest10ft, setContoursTest10ft] = useState(false)
   const panelRef = useRef(null)
 
   // Initialize from localStorage or defaults on mount
@@ -32,18 +34,24 @@ export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
 
     const plAvailable = hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')
     const ctAvailable = hasFeature('has_contours')
+    const ctTestAvailable = hasFeature('has_contours_test')
+    const ctTest10ftAvailable = hasFeature('has_contours_test_10ft')
 
     if (saved) {
       setHillshade(hsAvailable && (saved.hillshade ?? true))
       setTraffic(trAvailable && (saved.traffic ?? false))
       setPublicLands(plAvailable && (saved.publicLands ?? false))
       setContours(ctAvailable && (saved.contours ?? false))
+      setContoursTest(ctTestAvailable && (saved.contoursTest ?? false))
+      setContoursTest10ft(ctTest10ftAvailable && (saved.contoursTest10ft ?? false))
     } else {
       // Defaults: hillshade ON if available, others OFF
       setHillshade(hsAvailable)
       setTraffic(false)
       setPublicLands(false)
       setContours(false)
+      setContoursTest(false)
+      setContoursTest10ft(false)
     }
   }, [])
 
@@ -67,7 +75,7 @@ export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
     } else {
       map.once('style.load', apply)
     }
-    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours })
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours, contoursTest, contoursTest10ft })
     return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
   }, [hillshade, mapRef])
 
@@ -90,7 +98,7 @@ export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
     } else {
       map.once('style.load', apply)
     }
-    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours })
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours, contoursTest, contoursTest10ft })
     return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
   }, [traffic, mapRef])
 
@@ -113,7 +121,7 @@ export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
     } else {
       map.once('style.load', apply)
     }
-    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours })
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours, contoursTest, contoursTest10ft })
     return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
   }, [publicLands, mapRef])
 
@@ -136,10 +144,53 @@ export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
     } else {
       map.once('style.load', apply)
     }
-    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours })
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours, contoursTest, contoursTest10ft })
     return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
   }, [contours, mapRef])
 
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const mapView = mapRef?.current
+    if (!mapView) return
+    const map = mapView.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (contoursTest && hasFeature('has_contours_test')) {
+        mapView.addContoursTestLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapView.removeContoursTestLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours, contoursTest, contoursTest10ft })
+    return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
+  }, [contoursTest, mapRef])
+
+  // Apply contoursTest10ft layer
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapRef.current?.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (contoursTest10ft && hasFeature('has_contours_test_10ft')) {
+        mapRef.current?.addContoursTest10ftLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapRef.current?.removeContoursTest10ftLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+  }, [contoursTest10ft, mapRef])
+
   // Close on outside click
   useEffect(() => {
     if (!open) return
@@ -156,9 +207,11 @@ export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
   const showTraffic = hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')
   const showPublicLands = hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')
   const showContours = hasFeature('has_contours')
+  const showContoursTest = hasFeature('has_contours_test')
+  const showContoursTest10ft = hasFeature('has_contours_test_10ft')
 
   // Don't render if no overlay features available
-  if (!showHillshade && !showTraffic && !showPublicLands && !showContours) return null
+  if (!showHillshade && !showTraffic && !showPublicLands && !showContours && !showContoursTest && !showContoursTest10ft) return null
 
   return (
     <div ref={panelRef} className="layer-control">
@@ -222,6 +275,30 @@ export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
               />
             </label>
           )}
+
+          {showContoursTest && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Contours (Test)</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={contoursTest}
+                onChange={(e) => setContoursTest(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
+
+          {showContoursTest10ft && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Contours (Test 10ft)</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={contoursTest10ft}
+                onChange={(e) => setContoursTest10ft(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
         </div>
       )}
     </div>
diff --git a/src/components/LayerControl.jsx.bak b/src/components/LayerControl.jsx.bak
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2e234cc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/components/LayerControl.jsx.bak
@@ -0,0 +1,189 @@
+import { useState, useEffect, useRef } from 'react'
+import { Layers, Trees } from 'lucide-react'
+import { hasFeature, getConfig } from '../config'
+
+const STORAGE_KEY = 'navi-layer-prefs'
+
+function loadPrefs() {
+  try {
+    const raw = localStorage.getItem(STORAGE_KEY)
+    if (raw) return JSON.parse(raw)
+  } catch {}
+  return null
+}
+
+function savePrefs(prefs) {
+  localStorage.setItem(STORAGE_KEY, JSON.stringify(prefs))
+}
+
+export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
+  const [open, setOpen] = useState(false)
+  const [hillshade, setHillshade] = useState(false)
+  const [traffic, setTraffic] = useState(false)
+  const [publicLands, setPublicLands] = useState(false)
+  const panelRef = useRef(null)
+
+  // Initialize from localStorage or defaults on mount
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const saved = loadPrefs()
+    const hsAvailable = hasFeature('has_hillshade')
+    const trAvailable = hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')
+
+    const plAvailable = hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')
+
+    if (saved) {
+      setHillshade(hsAvailable && (saved.hillshade ?? true))
+      setTraffic(trAvailable && (saved.traffic ?? false))
+      setPublicLands(plAvailable && (saved.publicLands ?? false))
+    } else {
+      // Defaults: hillshade ON if available, traffic + publicLands OFF
+      setHillshade(hsAvailable)
+      setTraffic(false)
+      setPublicLands(false)
+    }
+  }, [])
+
+  // Apply layers when prefs change
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const mapView = mapRef?.current
+    if (!mapView) return
+    const map = mapView.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (hillshade && hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+        mapView.addHillshadeLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapView.removeHillshadeLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands })
+    return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
+  }, [hillshade, mapRef])
+
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const mapView = mapRef?.current
+    if (!mapView) return
+    const map = mapView.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (traffic && hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')) {
+        mapView.addTrafficLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapView.removeTrafficLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands })
+    return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
+  }, [traffic, mapRef])
+
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const mapView = mapRef?.current
+    if (!mapView) return
+    const map = mapView.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (publicLands && hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')) {
+        mapView.addPublicLandsLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapView.removePublicLandsLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands })
+    return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
+  }, [publicLands, mapRef])
+
+  // Close on outside click
+  useEffect(() => {
+    if (!open) return
+    function handleClick(e) {
+      if (panelRef.current && !panelRef.current.contains(e.target)) {
+        setOpen(false)
+      }
+    }
+    document.addEventListener('pointerdown', handleClick)
+    return () => document.removeEventListener('pointerdown', handleClick)
+  }, [open])
+
+  const showHillshade = hasFeature('has_hillshade')
+  const showTraffic = hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')
+  const showPublicLands = hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')
+
+  // Don't render if no overlay features available
+  if (!showHillshade && !showTraffic && !showPublicLands) return null
+
+  return (
+    <div ref={panelRef} className="layer-control">
+      <button
+        className="layer-control-btn"
+        onClick={() => setOpen((v) => !v)}
+        title="Map layers"
+        aria-label="Toggle map layers"
+      >
+        <Layers size={18} />
+      </button>
+
+      {open && (
+        <div className="layer-control-popover">
+          <div className="layer-control-header">Layers</div>
+
+          {showHillshade && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Hillshade</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={hillshade}
+                onChange={(e) => setHillshade(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
+
+          {showTraffic && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Traffic</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={traffic}
+                onChange={(e) => setTraffic(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
+
+          {showPublicLands && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Public Lands</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={publicLands}
+                onChange={(e) => setPublicLands(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
+        </div>
+      )}
+    </div>
+  )
+}
diff --git a/src/components/LayerControl.jsx.bak.contour-test b/src/components/LayerControl.jsx.bak.contour-test
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3030d0d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/components/LayerControl.jsx.bak.contour-test
@@ -0,0 +1,229 @@
+import { useState, useEffect, useRef } from 'react'
+import { Layers, Trees, Mountain } from 'lucide-react'
+import { hasFeature, getConfig } from '../config'
+
+const STORAGE_KEY = 'navi-layer-prefs'
+
+function loadPrefs() {
+  try {
+    const raw = localStorage.getItem(STORAGE_KEY)
+    if (raw) return JSON.parse(raw)
+  } catch {}
+  return null
+}
+
+function savePrefs(prefs) {
+  localStorage.setItem(STORAGE_KEY, JSON.stringify(prefs))
+}
+
+export default function LayerControl({ mapRef }) {
+  const [open, setOpen] = useState(false)
+  const [hillshade, setHillshade] = useState(false)
+  const [traffic, setTraffic] = useState(false)
+  const [publicLands, setPublicLands] = useState(false)
+  const [contours, setContours] = useState(false)
+  const panelRef = useRef(null)
+
+  // Initialize from localStorage or defaults on mount
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const saved = loadPrefs()
+    const hsAvailable = hasFeature('has_hillshade')
+    const trAvailable = hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')
+
+    const plAvailable = hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')
+    const ctAvailable = hasFeature('has_contours')
+
+    if (saved) {
+      setHillshade(hsAvailable && (saved.hillshade ?? true))
+      setTraffic(trAvailable && (saved.traffic ?? false))
+      setPublicLands(plAvailable && (saved.publicLands ?? false))
+      setContours(ctAvailable && (saved.contours ?? false))
+    } else {
+      // Defaults: hillshade ON if available, others OFF
+      setHillshade(hsAvailable)
+      setTraffic(false)
+      setPublicLands(false)
+      setContours(false)
+    }
+  }, [])
+
+  // Apply layers when prefs change
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const mapView = mapRef?.current
+    if (!mapView) return
+    const map = mapView.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (hillshade && hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+        mapView.addHillshadeLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapView.removeHillshadeLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours })
+    return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
+  }, [hillshade, mapRef])
+
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const mapView = mapRef?.current
+    if (!mapView) return
+    const map = mapView.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (traffic && hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')) {
+        mapView.addTrafficLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapView.removeTrafficLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours })
+    return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
+  }, [traffic, mapRef])
+
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const mapView = mapRef?.current
+    if (!mapView) return
+    const map = mapView.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (publicLands && hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')) {
+        mapView.addPublicLandsLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapView.removePublicLandsLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours })
+    return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
+  }, [publicLands, mapRef])
+
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const mapView = mapRef?.current
+    if (!mapView) return
+    const map = mapView.getMap?.()
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const apply = () => {
+      if (contours && hasFeature('has_contours')) {
+        mapView.addContoursLayer?.()
+      } else {
+        mapView.removeContoursLayer?.()
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      apply()
+    } else {
+      map.once('style.load', apply)
+    }
+    savePrefs({ hillshade, traffic, publicLands, contours })
+    return () => map.off('style.load', apply)
+  }, [contours, mapRef])
+
+  // Close on outside click
+  useEffect(() => {
+    if (!open) return
+    function handleClick(e) {
+      if (panelRef.current && !panelRef.current.contains(e.target)) {
+        setOpen(false)
+      }
+    }
+    document.addEventListener('pointerdown', handleClick)
+    return () => document.removeEventListener('pointerdown', handleClick)
+  }, [open])
+
+  const showHillshade = hasFeature('has_hillshade')
+  const showTraffic = hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')
+  const showPublicLands = hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')
+  const showContours = hasFeature('has_contours')
+
+  // Don't render if no overlay features available
+  if (!showHillshade && !showTraffic && !showPublicLands && !showContours) return null
+
+  return (
+    <div ref={panelRef} className="layer-control">
+      <button
+        className="layer-control-btn"
+        onClick={() => setOpen((v) => !v)}
+        title="Map layers"
+        aria-label="Toggle map layers"
+      >
+        <Layers size={18} />
+      </button>
+
+      {open && (
+        <div className="layer-control-popover">
+          <div className="layer-control-header">Layers</div>
+
+          {showHillshade && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Hillshade</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={hillshade}
+                onChange={(e) => setHillshade(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
+
+          {showTraffic && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Traffic</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={traffic}
+                onChange={(e) => setTraffic(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
+
+          {showPublicLands && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Public Lands</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={publicLands}
+                onChange={(e) => setPublicLands(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
+
+          {showContours && (
+            <label className="layer-control-item">
+              <span className="layer-control-label">Contours</span>
+              <input
+                type="checkbox"
+                className="layer-control-toggle"
+                checked={contours}
+                onChange={(e) => setContours(e.target.checked)}
+              />
+            </label>
+          )}
+        </div>
+      )}
+    </div>
+  )
+}
diff --git a/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7da3865
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak
@@ -0,0 +1,729 @@
+import { useEffect, useRef, forwardRef, useImperativeHandle } from 'react'
+import maplibregl from 'maplibre-gl'
+import 'maplibre-gl/dist/maplibre-gl.css'
+import { Protocol } from 'pmtiles'
+import { layers, namedTheme } from 'protomaps-themes-base'
+import { useStore } from '../store'
+import { decodePolyline } from '../utils/decode'
+import { fetchReverse } from '../api'
+import { getConfig, hasFeature } from '../config'
+
+const ROUTE_SOURCE = 'route-source'
+const ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX = 'route-layer-'
+const HILLSHADE_SOURCE = 'hillshade-dem'
+const HILLSHADE_LAYER = 'hillshade-layer'
+const TRAFFIC_SOURCE = 'traffic-tiles'
+const TRAFFIC_LAYER = 'traffic-layer'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE = 'public-lands-tiles'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL = 'public-lands-fill'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE = 'public-lands-line'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL = 'public-lands-label'
+
+/** Build a full MapLibre style object for the given theme */
+function buildStyle(themeName) {
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tileUrl = config?.tileset?.url || '/tiles/na.pmtiles'
+  const attribution = config?.tileset?.attribution || 'Protomaps \u00a9 OSM'
+
+  return {
+    version: 8,
+    glyphs: 'https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf',
+    sprite: `https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/sprites/v4/${themeName}`,
+    sources: {
+      protomaps: {
+        type: 'vector',
+        url: `pmtiles://${tileUrl}`,
+        attribution,
+      },
+    },
+    layers: layers('protomaps', namedTheme(themeName), { lang: 'en' }),
+  }
+}
+
+/** SVG for ATAK-style chevron pointing up (will be rotated via CSS) */
+const CHEVRON_SVG = `<svg width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 16 16" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg">
+  <path d="M8 1 L14 13 L8 10 L2 13 Z" fill="var(--accent)" stroke="var(--bg-raised)" stroke-width="1.5" stroke-linejoin="round"/>
+</svg>`
+
+/** Add hillshade raster-dem source + layer to the map */
+function addHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const hs = config?.tileset_hillshade
+  if (!hs?.url) return
+
+  map.addSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster-dem',
+    url: `pmtiles://${hs.url}`,
+    encoding: hs.encoding || 'terrarium',
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: hs.max_zoom || 12,
+  })
+
+  // Insert below the first symbol/label layer for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: HILLSHADE_LAYER,
+    type: 'hillshade',
+    source: HILLSHADE_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'hillshade-exaggeration': 0.5,
+      'hillshade-illumination-direction': 315,
+      'hillshade-shadow-color': '#000000',
+      'hillshade-highlight-color': '#ffffff',
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+}
+
+/** Remove hillshade layer + source */
+function removeHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add traffic raster tile source + layer */
+function addTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tr = config?.traffic
+  if (!tr?.proxy_url) return
+
+  const tileUrl = tr.proxy_url.replace('{z}', '{z}').replace('{x}', '{x}').replace('{y}', '{y}')
+
+  map.addSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster',
+    tiles: [tileUrl],
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: 18,
+  })
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: TRAFFIC_LAYER,
+    type: 'raster',
+    source: TRAFFIC_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'raster-opacity': 0.6,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove traffic layer + source */
+function removeTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add public lands vector tile overlay (PAD-US) */
+function addPublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/public-lands.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below symbol layers for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opacityMod = isDark ? 0.7 : 1.0
+
+  // Fill layer — data-driven color by agency + designation
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL,
+    type: 'fill',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'fill-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#3d6b1f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#5a7c2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#c4a672',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#4a7a5a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SDC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SLB']
+        ], '#5a8c7c',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#8ca694',
+        '#a0a0a0'
+      ],
+      'fill-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        0.15 * opacityMod
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Outline layer
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#2a4a15',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#3d5520',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#8a7343',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#2d5a3a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], '#3d6055',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#5c6e66',
+        '#707070'
+      ],
+      'line-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.7,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.6,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.5,
+        0.5
+      ],
+      'line-width': [
+        'interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'],
+        4, 0.3,
+        8, 0.8,
+        12, 1.2
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Label layer — unit names at zoom 10+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    minzoom: 10,
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['get', 'name'],
+      'text-size': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 10, 10, 14, 13],
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'point',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'text-max-width': 8,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+      'text-ignore-placement': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0c8b8' : '#3a4a30',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove public lands layers + source */
+function removePublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)
+  if (map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)
+}
+
+const MapView = forwardRef(function MapView(_, ref) {
+  const mapRef = useRef(null)
+  const mapInstance = useRef(null)
+  const markersRef = useRef([])
+  const popupRef = useRef(null)
+  const gpsMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const previewMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const watchIdRef = useRef(null)
+  const currentThemeRef = useRef('dark')
+  // Track which overlay layers are currently active (for theme swap re-add)
+  const activeLayersRef = useRef({ hillshade: false, traffic: false })
+  // Flag to suppress map-click when a stop pin was clicked
+  const pinClickedRef = useRef(false)
+
+  const stops = useStore((s) => s.stops)
+  const route = useStore((s) => s.route)
+  const theme = useStore((s) => s.theme)
+  const selectedPlace = useStore((s) => s.selectedPlace)
+  const gpsOrigin = useStore((s) => s.gpsOrigin)
+  const geoPermission = useStore((s) => s.geoPermission)
+  const setSheetState = useStore((s) => s.setSheetState)
+
+  // Expose map methods to parent
+  useImperativeHandle(ref, () => ({
+    flyTo(lat, lon, zoom = 14) {
+      mapInstance.current?.flyTo({ center: [lon, lat], zoom })
+    },
+    getMap() {
+      return mapInstance.current
+    },
+    addHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+    },
+    removeHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = false
+    },
+    addTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+    },
+    removeTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = false
+    },
+    addPublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addPublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+    },
+    removePublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removePublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = false
+    },
+  }))
+
+  // Initialize map
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const protocol = new Protocol()
+    maplibregl.addProtocol('pmtiles', protocol.tile)
+
+    const config = getConfig()
+    const DEFAULT_CENTER = config?.defaults?.center
+      ? [config.defaults.center[1], config.defaults.center[0]]  // config is [lat,lon], MapLibre wants [lon,lat]
+      : [-114.6066, 42.5736]
+    const DEFAULT_ZOOM = config?.defaults?.zoom || 10
+
+    const initialTheme = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') || 'dark'
+    currentThemeRef.current = initialTheme
+
+    const map = new maplibregl.Map({
+      container: mapRef.current,
+      style: buildStyle(initialTheme),
+      center: DEFAULT_CENTER,
+      zoom: DEFAULT_ZOOM,
+    })
+
+    map.addControl(new maplibregl.NavigationControl(), 'top-right')
+
+    // Map click — drop pin and reverse geocode
+    map.on('click', (e) => {
+      // If a stop pin was just clicked, skip the pin-drop
+      if (pinClickedRef.current) {
+        pinClickedRef.current = false
+        return
+      }
+
+      if (window.innerWidth < 768) setSheetState('collapsed')
+
+      const { lng, lat } = e.lngLat
+
+      // Immediately set a "Dropped pin" placeholder so PlaceDetail opens with coords
+      useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+        lat,
+        lon: lng,
+        name: 'Dropped pin',
+        address: null,
+        type: null,
+        source: 'map_click',
+        matchCode: null,
+        raw: {},
+      })
+
+      // Reverse geocode in background — update place when result arrives
+      fetchReverse(lat, lng).then((place) => {
+        if (!place) return
+        // Only update if the selected place is still this pin (user hasn't clicked elsewhere)
+        const current = useStore.getState().selectedPlace
+        if (current && Math.abs(current.lat - lat) < 0.00001 && Math.abs(current.lon - lng) < 0.00001) {
+          useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+            ...place,
+            lat,
+            lon: lng,
+          })
+        }
+      })
+    })
+
+    map.on('load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Restore overlay layers from localStorage prefs
+      try {
+        const raw = localStorage.getItem('navi-layer-prefs')
+        if (raw) {
+          const prefs = JSON.parse(raw)
+          if (prefs.hillshade && hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+            addHillshade(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.traffic && hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')) {
+            addTraffic(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.publicLands && hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')) {
+            addPublicLands(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+          }
+        } else if (hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+          // Default: hillshade ON if available
+          addHillshade(map)
+          activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+        }
+      } catch {}
+    })
+
+    mapInstance.current = map
+
+    return () => {
+      if (watchIdRef.current != null) navigator.geolocation.clearWatch(watchIdRef.current)
+      if (gpsMarkerRef.current) gpsMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      maplibregl.removeProtocol('pmtiles')
+      map.remove()
+    }
+  }, [setSheetState])
+
+  /** Create or update the GPS chevron/dot marker */
+  function createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, lat, lon, heading) {
+    if (!gpsMarkerRef.current) {
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+        el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+      }
+      gpsMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([lon, lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+    } else {
+      gpsMarkerRef.current.setLngLat([lon, lat])
+      const el = gpsMarkerRef.current.getElement()
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-chevron')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+          el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        }
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-gps-dot')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+          el.innerHTML = ''
+        }
+      }
+    }
+  }
+
+  // React to permission changes from LocateButton (when user grants after initial denial)
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || geoPermission !== 'granted') return
+
+    // If marker already exists, watchPosition is already running — nothing to do
+    if (gpsMarkerRef.current) return
+
+    // Permission was just granted (likely from LocateButton) — create marker + start tracking
+    const loc = useStore.getState().userLocation
+    if (loc) {
+      createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, loc.lat, loc.lon, null)
+    }
+
+    if (!watchIdRef.current) {
+      watchIdRef.current = navigator.geolocation.watchPosition(
+        (pos) => {
+          const { latitude, longitude, heading } = pos.coords
+          useStore.getState().setUserLocation({ lat: latitude, lon: longitude })
+          createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, latitude, longitude, heading)
+        },
+        () => {},
+        { enableHighAccuracy: true, maximumAge: 5000 }
+      )
+    }
+  }, [geoPermission])
+
+    // Swap map theme when store.theme changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || currentThemeRef.current === theme) return
+
+    currentThemeRef.current = theme
+    const center = map.getCenter()
+    const zoom = map.getZoom()
+    const bearing = map.getBearing()
+    const pitch = map.getPitch()
+
+    map.setStyle(buildStyle(theme), { diff: false })
+
+    // Re-add sources/layers after style swap
+    map.once('style.load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Re-add active overlay layers
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.hillshade) addHillshade(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.traffic) addTraffic(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.publicLands) addPublicLands(map)
+
+      // Restore view
+      map.jumpTo({ center, zoom, bearing, pitch })
+      // Re-render route if exists
+      const currentRoute = useStore.getState().route
+      if (currentRoute) updateRoute(map, currentRoute)
+    })
+  }, [theme])
+
+  // Preview pin for selected place
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old preview marker
+    if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+      previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      previewMarkerRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    if (!selectedPlace) return
+
+    // Only fly to place if it came from search (not map-click which already centered)
+    if (selectedPlace.source !== 'map_click') {
+      map.flyTo({ center: [selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat], zoom: 14, duration: 800 })
+    }
+
+    // Create preview marker
+    const el = document.createElement('div')
+    el.className = 'navi-pin-preview'
+    previewMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+      .setLngLat([selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat])
+      .addTo(map)
+
+    return () => {
+      if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+        previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+        previewMarkerRef.current = null
+      }
+    }
+  }, [selectedPlace])
+
+  // Update route polyline when route changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+    if (!map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      const handler = () => updateRoute(map, route)
+      map.once('load', handler)
+      return () => map.off('load', handler)
+    }
+    updateRoute(map, route)
+  }, [route])
+
+  function updateRoute(map, routeData) {
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old route layers
+    const style = map.getStyle()
+    if (style) {
+      for (const layer of style.layers) {
+        if (layer.id.startsWith(ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX)) {
+          map.removeLayer(layer.id)
+        }
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (!routeData || !routeData.legs) {
+      if (map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)) {
+        map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE).setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] })
+      }
+      return
+    }
+
+    const features = []
+    for (let i = 0; i < routeData.legs.length; i++) {
+      const leg = routeData.legs[i]
+      if (!leg.shape) continue
+      const coords = decodePolyline(leg.shape, 6)
+      features.push({
+        type: 'Feature',
+        properties: { legIndex: i },
+        geometry: { type: 'LineString', coordinates: coords },
+      })
+    }
+
+    const source = map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)
+    if (source) {
+      source.setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features })
+    } else {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features },
+      })
+    }
+
+    // Use CSS variable for route color (read computed value)
+    const routeColor = getComputedStyle(document.documentElement).getPropertyValue('--route-line').trim()
+
+    for (let i = 0; i < features.length; i++) {
+      const layerId = `${ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX}${i}`
+      if (!map.getLayer(layerId)) {
+        map.addLayer({
+          id: layerId,
+          type: 'line',
+          source: ROUTE_SOURCE,
+          filter: ['==', ['get', 'legIndex'], i],
+          layout: { 'line-join': 'round', 'line-cap': 'round' },
+          paint: {
+            'line-color': routeColor || '#7a9a6b',
+            'line-width': 5,
+            'line-opacity': 0.85,
+          },
+        })
+      }
+    }
+
+    // Fit bounds to route
+    if (features.length > 0) {
+      const allCoords = features.flatMap((f) => f.geometry.coordinates)
+      const bounds = allCoords.reduce(
+        (b, c) => b.extend(c),
+        new maplibregl.LngLatBounds(allCoords[0], allCoords[0])
+      )
+      const hasDetail = useStore.getState().selectedPlace != null
+      const leftPad = hasDetail ? 700 : 340
+      map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: leftPad, right: 60 } })
+    }
+  }
+
+  // Update stop markers when stops change
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old markers
+    for (const m of markersRef.current) m.remove()
+    markersRef.current = []
+    if (popupRef.current) {
+      popupRef.current.remove()
+      popupRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    const hasGpsOrigin = gpsOrigin && geoPermission === 'granted'
+    const indexOffset = hasGpsOrigin ? 1 : 0
+
+    stops.forEach((stop, i) => {
+      const displayIndex = i + indexOffset
+      const effectiveTotal = stops.length + indexOffset
+
+      let pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--intermediate'
+      if (displayIndex === 0) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--origin'
+      else if (displayIndex === effectiveTotal - 1 && effectiveTotal > 1) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--destination'
+
+      const label = String.fromCharCode(65 + Math.min(displayIndex, 25))
+
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      el.className = pinClass
+      el.textContent = label
+
+      el.addEventListener('click', (e) => {
+        e.stopPropagation()
+        // Flag so the map-level click handler doesn't fire
+        pinClickedRef.current = true
+        if (popupRef.current) popupRef.current.remove()
+        const popup = new maplibregl.Popup({ offset: 20, closeButton: true })
+          .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+          .setHTML(
+            `<div style="font-size:12px;max-width:200px">
+              <strong>${stop.name}</strong>
+              <br/><button id="remove-stop-${stop.id}" style="margin-top:4px;padding:2px 8px;background:var(--status-danger);border:none;border-radius:4px;color:white;cursor:pointer;font-size:11px">Remove</button>
+            </div>`
+          )
+          .addTo(map)
+
+        popup.getElement().querySelector(`#remove-stop-${stop.id}`)?.addEventListener('click', () => {
+          useStore.getState().removeStop(stop.id)
+          popup.remove()
+        })
+        popupRef.current = popup
+      })
+
+      const marker = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+
+      markersRef.current.push(marker)
+    })
+
+    // If stops but no route yet, fit to stops
+    if (stops.length > 0 && !route) {
+      if (stops.length === 1) {
+        map.flyTo({ center: [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], zoom: 13 })
+      } else {
+        const bounds = stops.reduce(
+          (b, s) => b.extend([s.lon, s.lat]),
+          new maplibregl.LngLatBounds([stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat])
+        )
+        map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: 340, right: 60 } })
+      }
+    }
+  }, [stops, route, gpsOrigin, geoPermission])
+
+  return <div ref={mapRef} className="w-full h-full" />
+})
+
+export default MapView
diff --git a/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.contour-test b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.contour-test
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..16694eb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.contour-test
@@ -0,0 +1,854 @@
+import { useEffect, useRef, forwardRef, useImperativeHandle } from 'react'
+import maplibregl from 'maplibre-gl'
+import 'maplibre-gl/dist/maplibre-gl.css'
+import { Protocol } from 'pmtiles'
+import { layers, namedTheme } from 'protomaps-themes-base'
+import { useStore } from '../store'
+import { decodePolyline } from '../utils/decode'
+import { fetchReverse } from '../api'
+import { getConfig, hasFeature } from '../config'
+
+const ROUTE_SOURCE = 'route-source'
+const ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX = 'route-layer-'
+const HILLSHADE_SOURCE = 'hillshade-dem'
+const HILLSHADE_LAYER = 'hillshade-layer'
+const TRAFFIC_SOURCE = 'traffic-tiles'
+const TRAFFIC_LAYER = 'traffic-layer'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE = 'public-lands-tiles'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL = 'public-lands-fill'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE = 'public-lands-line'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL = 'public-lands-label'
+const CONTOUR_SOURCE = 'contour-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_MINOR = 'contour-minor'
+const CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_INDEX = 'contour-index'
+const CONTOUR_LABEL = 'contour-label'
+
+/** Build a full MapLibre style object for the given theme */
+function buildStyle(themeName) {
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tileUrl = config?.tileset?.url || '/tiles/na.pmtiles'
+  const attribution = config?.tileset?.attribution || 'Protomaps \u00a9 OSM'
+
+  return {
+    version: 8,
+    glyphs: 'https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf',
+    sprite: `https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/sprites/v4/${themeName}`,
+    sources: {
+      protomaps: {
+        type: 'vector',
+        url: `pmtiles://${tileUrl}`,
+        attribution,
+      },
+    },
+    layers: layers('protomaps', namedTheme(themeName), { lang: 'en' }),
+  }
+}
+
+/** SVG for ATAK-style chevron pointing up (will be rotated via CSS) */
+const CHEVRON_SVG = `<svg width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 16 16" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg">
+  <path d="M8 1 L14 13 L8 10 L2 13 Z" fill="var(--accent)" stroke="var(--bg-raised)" stroke-width="1.5" stroke-linejoin="round"/>
+</svg>`
+
+/** Add hillshade raster-dem source + layer to the map */
+function addHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const hs = config?.tileset_hillshade
+  if (!hs?.url) return
+
+  map.addSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster-dem',
+    url: `pmtiles://${hs.url}`,
+    encoding: hs.encoding || 'terrarium',
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: hs.max_zoom || 12,
+  })
+
+  // Insert below the first symbol/label layer for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: HILLSHADE_LAYER,
+    type: 'hillshade',
+    source: HILLSHADE_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'hillshade-exaggeration': 0.5,
+      'hillshade-illumination-direction': 315,
+      'hillshade-shadow-color': '#000000',
+      'hillshade-highlight-color': '#ffffff',
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+}
+
+/** Remove hillshade layer + source */
+function removeHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add traffic raster tile source + layer */
+function addTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tr = config?.traffic
+  if (!tr?.proxy_url) return
+
+  const tileUrl = tr.proxy_url.replace('{z}', '{z}').replace('{x}', '{x}').replace('{y}', '{y}')
+
+  map.addSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster',
+    tiles: [tileUrl],
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: 18,
+  })
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: TRAFFIC_LAYER,
+    type: 'raster',
+    source: TRAFFIC_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'raster-opacity': 0.6,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove traffic layer + source */
+function removeTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add public lands vector tile overlay (PAD-US) */
+function addPublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/public-lands.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below symbol layers for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opacityMod = isDark ? 0.7 : 1.0
+
+  // Fill layer — data-driven color by agency + designation
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL,
+    type: 'fill',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'fill-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#3d6b1f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#5a7c2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#c4a672',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#4a7a5a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SDC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SLB']
+        ], '#5a8c7c',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#8ca694',
+        '#a0a0a0'
+      ],
+      'fill-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        0.15 * opacityMod
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Outline layer
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#2a4a15',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#3d5520',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#8a7343',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#2d5a3a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], '#3d6055',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#5c6e66',
+        '#707070'
+      ],
+      'line-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.7,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.6,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.5,
+        0.5
+      ],
+      'line-width': [
+        'interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'],
+        4, 0.3,
+        8, 0.8,
+        12, 1.2
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Label layer — unit names at zoom 10+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    minzoom: 10,
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['get', 'name'],
+      'text-size': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 10, 10, 14, 13],
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'point',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'text-max-width': 8,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+      'text-ignore-placement': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0c8b8' : '#3a4a30',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove public lands layers + source */
+function removePublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)
+  if (map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add topographic contour vector tile overlay */
+function addContours(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/contours-na.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below first symbol layer (above hillshade, below labels)
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (40ft) — visible z11+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_MINOR,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'minor'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#8b6f47',
+      'line-opacity': 0.4 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (200ft) — visible z8+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'intermediate'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#8b6f47',
+      'line-opacity': 0.7 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (1000ft) — visible z4+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_INDEX,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'index'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#6b4f2a',
+      'line-opacity': 0.9 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Elevation labels on index contours (z12+)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'index'],
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['concat', ['to-string', ['get', 'elevation_ft']], "'"],
+      'text-size': 10,
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'line',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'symbol-spacing': 400,
+      'text-max-angle': 30,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0b898' : '#5a4020',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove contour layers + source */
+function removeContours(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)
+}
+
+const MapView = forwardRef(function MapView(_, ref) {
+  const mapRef = useRef(null)
+  const mapInstance = useRef(null)
+  const markersRef = useRef([])
+  const popupRef = useRef(null)
+  const gpsMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const previewMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const watchIdRef = useRef(null)
+  const currentThemeRef = useRef('dark')
+  // Track which overlay layers are currently active (for theme swap re-add)
+  const activeLayersRef = useRef({ hillshade: false, traffic: false, contours: false })
+  // Flag to suppress map-click when a stop pin was clicked
+  const pinClickedRef = useRef(false)
+
+  const stops = useStore((s) => s.stops)
+  const route = useStore((s) => s.route)
+  const theme = useStore((s) => s.theme)
+  const selectedPlace = useStore((s) => s.selectedPlace)
+  const gpsOrigin = useStore((s) => s.gpsOrigin)
+  const geoPermission = useStore((s) => s.geoPermission)
+  const setSheetState = useStore((s) => s.setSheetState)
+
+  // Expose map methods to parent
+  useImperativeHandle(ref, () => ({
+    flyTo(lat, lon, zoom = 14) {
+      mapInstance.current?.flyTo({ center: [lon, lat], zoom })
+    },
+    getMap() {
+      return mapInstance.current
+    },
+    addHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+    },
+    removeHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = false
+    },
+    addTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+    },
+    removeTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = false
+    },
+    addPublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addPublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+    },
+    removePublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removePublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = false
+    },
+    addContoursLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContours(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contours = true
+    },
+    removeContoursLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContours(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contours = false
+    },
+  }))
+
+  // Initialize map
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const protocol = new Protocol()
+    maplibregl.addProtocol('pmtiles', protocol.tile)
+
+    const config = getConfig()
+    const DEFAULT_CENTER = config?.defaults?.center
+      ? [config.defaults.center[1], config.defaults.center[0]]  // config is [lat,lon], MapLibre wants [lon,lat]
+      : [-114.6066, 42.5736]
+    const DEFAULT_ZOOM = config?.defaults?.zoom || 10
+
+    const initialTheme = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') || 'dark'
+    currentThemeRef.current = initialTheme
+
+    const map = new maplibregl.Map({
+      container: mapRef.current,
+      style: buildStyle(initialTheme),
+      center: DEFAULT_CENTER,
+      zoom: DEFAULT_ZOOM,
+    })
+
+    map.addControl(new maplibregl.NavigationControl(), 'top-right')
+
+    // Map click — drop pin and reverse geocode
+    map.on('click', (e) => {
+      // If a stop pin was just clicked, skip the pin-drop
+      if (pinClickedRef.current) {
+        pinClickedRef.current = false
+        return
+      }
+
+      if (window.innerWidth < 768) setSheetState('collapsed')
+
+      const { lng, lat } = e.lngLat
+
+      // Immediately set a "Dropped pin" placeholder so PlaceDetail opens with coords
+      useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+        lat,
+        lon: lng,
+        name: 'Dropped pin',
+        address: null,
+        type: null,
+        source: 'map_click',
+        matchCode: null,
+        raw: {},
+      })
+
+      // Reverse geocode in background — update place when result arrives
+      fetchReverse(lat, lng).then((place) => {
+        if (!place) return
+        // Only update if the selected place is still this pin (user hasn't clicked elsewhere)
+        const current = useStore.getState().selectedPlace
+        if (current && Math.abs(current.lat - lat) < 0.00001 && Math.abs(current.lon - lng) < 0.00001) {
+          useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+            ...place,
+            lat,
+            lon: lng,
+          })
+        }
+      })
+    })
+
+    map.on('load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Restore overlay layers from localStorage prefs
+      try {
+        const raw = localStorage.getItem('navi-layer-prefs')
+        if (raw) {
+          const prefs = JSON.parse(raw)
+          if (prefs.hillshade && hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+            addHillshade(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.traffic && hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')) {
+            addTraffic(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.publicLands && hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')) {
+            addPublicLands(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.contours && hasFeature('has_contours')) {
+            addContours(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.contours = true
+          }
+        } else if (hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+          // Default: hillshade ON if available
+          addHillshade(map)
+          activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+        }
+      } catch {}
+    })
+
+    mapInstance.current = map
+
+    return () => {
+      if (watchIdRef.current != null) navigator.geolocation.clearWatch(watchIdRef.current)
+      if (gpsMarkerRef.current) gpsMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      maplibregl.removeProtocol('pmtiles')
+      map.remove()
+    }
+  }, [setSheetState])
+
+  /** Create or update the GPS chevron/dot marker */
+  function createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, lat, lon, heading) {
+    if (!gpsMarkerRef.current) {
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+        el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+      }
+      gpsMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([lon, lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+    } else {
+      gpsMarkerRef.current.setLngLat([lon, lat])
+      const el = gpsMarkerRef.current.getElement()
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-chevron')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+          el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        }
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-gps-dot')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+          el.innerHTML = ''
+        }
+      }
+    }
+  }
+
+  // React to permission changes from LocateButton (when user grants after initial denial)
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || geoPermission !== 'granted') return
+
+    // If marker already exists, watchPosition is already running — nothing to do
+    if (gpsMarkerRef.current) return
+
+    // Permission was just granted (likely from LocateButton) — create marker + start tracking
+    const loc = useStore.getState().userLocation
+    if (loc) {
+      createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, loc.lat, loc.lon, null)
+    }
+
+    if (!watchIdRef.current) {
+      watchIdRef.current = navigator.geolocation.watchPosition(
+        (pos) => {
+          const { latitude, longitude, heading } = pos.coords
+          useStore.getState().setUserLocation({ lat: latitude, lon: longitude })
+          createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, latitude, longitude, heading)
+        },
+        () => {},
+        { enableHighAccuracy: true, maximumAge: 5000 }
+      )
+    }
+  }, [geoPermission])
+
+    // Swap map theme when store.theme changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || currentThemeRef.current === theme) return
+
+    currentThemeRef.current = theme
+    const center = map.getCenter()
+    const zoom = map.getZoom()
+    const bearing = map.getBearing()
+    const pitch = map.getPitch()
+
+    map.setStyle(buildStyle(theme), { diff: false })
+
+    // Re-add sources/layers after style swap
+    map.once('style.load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Re-add active overlay layers
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.hillshade) addHillshade(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.traffic) addTraffic(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.publicLands) addPublicLands(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.contours) addContours(map)
+
+      // Restore view
+      map.jumpTo({ center, zoom, bearing, pitch })
+      // Re-render route if exists
+      const currentRoute = useStore.getState().route
+      if (currentRoute) updateRoute(map, currentRoute)
+    })
+  }, [theme])
+
+  // Preview pin for selected place
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old preview marker
+    if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+      previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      previewMarkerRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    if (!selectedPlace) return
+
+    // Only fly to place if it came from search (not map-click which already centered)
+    if (selectedPlace.source !== 'map_click') {
+      map.flyTo({ center: [selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat], zoom: 14, duration: 800 })
+    }
+
+    // Create preview marker
+    const el = document.createElement('div')
+    el.className = 'navi-pin-preview'
+    previewMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+      .setLngLat([selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat])
+      .addTo(map)
+
+    return () => {
+      if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+        previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+        previewMarkerRef.current = null
+      }
+    }
+  }, [selectedPlace])
+
+  // Update route polyline when route changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+    if (!map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      const handler = () => updateRoute(map, route)
+      map.once('load', handler)
+      return () => map.off('load', handler)
+    }
+    updateRoute(map, route)
+  }, [route])
+
+  function updateRoute(map, routeData) {
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old route layers
+    const style = map.getStyle()
+    if (style) {
+      for (const layer of style.layers) {
+        if (layer.id.startsWith(ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX)) {
+          map.removeLayer(layer.id)
+        }
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (!routeData || !routeData.legs) {
+      if (map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)) {
+        map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE).setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] })
+      }
+      return
+    }
+
+    const features = []
+    for (let i = 0; i < routeData.legs.length; i++) {
+      const leg = routeData.legs[i]
+      if (!leg.shape) continue
+      const coords = decodePolyline(leg.shape, 6)
+      features.push({
+        type: 'Feature',
+        properties: { legIndex: i },
+        geometry: { type: 'LineString', coordinates: coords },
+      })
+    }
+
+    const source = map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)
+    if (source) {
+      source.setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features })
+    } else {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features },
+      })
+    }
+
+    // Use CSS variable for route color (read computed value)
+    const routeColor = getComputedStyle(document.documentElement).getPropertyValue('--route-line').trim()
+
+    for (let i = 0; i < features.length; i++) {
+      const layerId = `${ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX}${i}`
+      if (!map.getLayer(layerId)) {
+        map.addLayer({
+          id: layerId,
+          type: 'line',
+          source: ROUTE_SOURCE,
+          filter: ['==', ['get', 'legIndex'], i],
+          layout: { 'line-join': 'round', 'line-cap': 'round' },
+          paint: {
+            'line-color': routeColor || '#7a9a6b',
+            'line-width': 5,
+            'line-opacity': 0.85,
+          },
+        })
+      }
+    }
+
+    // Fit bounds to route
+    if (features.length > 0) {
+      const allCoords = features.flatMap((f) => f.geometry.coordinates)
+      const bounds = allCoords.reduce(
+        (b, c) => b.extend(c),
+        new maplibregl.LngLatBounds(allCoords[0], allCoords[0])
+      )
+      const hasDetail = useStore.getState().selectedPlace != null
+      const leftPad = hasDetail ? 700 : 340
+      map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: leftPad, right: 60 } })
+    }
+  }
+
+  // Update stop markers when stops change
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old markers
+    for (const m of markersRef.current) m.remove()
+    markersRef.current = []
+    if (popupRef.current) {
+      popupRef.current.remove()
+      popupRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    const hasGpsOrigin = gpsOrigin && geoPermission === 'granted'
+    const indexOffset = hasGpsOrigin ? 1 : 0
+
+    stops.forEach((stop, i) => {
+      const displayIndex = i + indexOffset
+      const effectiveTotal = stops.length + indexOffset
+
+      let pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--intermediate'
+      if (displayIndex === 0) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--origin'
+      else if (displayIndex === effectiveTotal - 1 && effectiveTotal > 1) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--destination'
+
+      const label = String.fromCharCode(65 + Math.min(displayIndex, 25))
+
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      el.className = pinClass
+      el.textContent = label
+
+      el.addEventListener('click', (e) => {
+        e.stopPropagation()
+        // Flag so the map-level click handler doesn't fire
+        pinClickedRef.current = true
+        if (popupRef.current) popupRef.current.remove()
+        const popup = new maplibregl.Popup({ offset: 20, closeButton: true })
+          .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+          .setHTML(
+            `<div style="font-size:12px;max-width:200px">
+              <strong>${stop.name}</strong>
+              <br/><button id="remove-stop-${stop.id}" style="margin-top:4px;padding:2px 8px;background:var(--status-danger);border:none;border-radius:4px;color:white;cursor:pointer;font-size:11px">Remove</button>
+            </div>`
+          )
+          .addTo(map)
+
+        popup.getElement().querySelector(`#remove-stop-${stop.id}`)?.addEventListener('click', () => {
+          useStore.getState().removeStop(stop.id)
+          popup.remove()
+        })
+        popupRef.current = popup
+      })
+
+      const marker = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+
+      markersRef.current.push(marker)
+    })
+
+    // If stops but no route yet, fit to stops
+    if (stops.length > 0 && !route) {
+      if (stops.length === 1) {
+        map.flyTo({ center: [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], zoom: 13 })
+      } else {
+        const bounds = stops.reduce(
+          (b, s) => b.extend([s.lon, s.lat]),
+          new maplibregl.LngLatBounds([stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat])
+        )
+        map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: 340, right: 60 } })
+      }
+    }
+  }, [stops, route, gpsOrigin, geoPermission])
+
+  return <div ref={mapRef} className="w-full h-full" />
+})
+
+export default MapView
diff --git a/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.radial b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.radial
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..e852306
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.radial
@@ -0,0 +1,1162 @@
+import { useEffect, useRef, forwardRef, useImperativeHandle, useState } from 'react'
+import maplibregl from 'maplibre-gl'
+import 'maplibre-gl/dist/maplibre-gl.css'
+import { Protocol } from 'pmtiles'
+import { layers, namedTheme } from 'protomaps-themes-base'
+import { useStore } from '../store'
+import { decodePolyline } from '../utils/decode'
+import { fetchReverse } from '../api'
+import { getConfig, hasFeature } from '../config'
+
+const ROUTE_SOURCE = 'route-source'
+const ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX = 'route-layer-'
+const HILLSHADE_SOURCE = 'hillshade-dem'
+const HILLSHADE_LAYER = 'hillshade-layer'
+const TRAFFIC_SOURCE = 'traffic-tiles'
+const TRAFFIC_LAYER = 'traffic-layer'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE = 'public-lands-tiles'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL = 'public-lands-fill'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE = 'public-lands-line'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL = 'public-lands-label'
+const CONTOUR_SOURCE = 'contour-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_MINOR = 'contour-minor'
+const CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_INDEX = 'contour-index'
+const CONTOUR_LABEL = 'contour-label'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE = 'contour-test-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR = 'contour-test-minor'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-test-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX = 'contour-test-index'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL = 'contour-test-label'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE = 'contour-test-10ft-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_MINOR = 'contour-test-10ft-minor'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-test-10ft-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INDEX = 'contour-test-10ft-index'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_LABEL = 'contour-test-10ft-label'
+
+/** Build a full MapLibre style object for the given theme */
+function buildStyle(themeName) {
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tileUrl = config?.tileset?.url || '/tiles/na.pmtiles'
+  const attribution = config?.tileset?.attribution || 'Protomaps \u00a9 OSM'
+
+  return {
+    version: 8,
+    glyphs: 'https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf',
+    sprite: `https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/sprites/v4/${themeName}`,
+    sources: {
+      protomaps: {
+        type: 'vector',
+        url: `pmtiles://${tileUrl}`,
+        attribution,
+      },
+    },
+    layers: layers('protomaps', namedTheme(themeName), { lang: 'en' }),
+  }
+}
+
+/** SVG for ATAK-style chevron pointing up (will be rotated via CSS) */
+const CHEVRON_SVG = `<svg width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 16 16" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg">
+  <path d="M8 1 L14 13 L8 10 L2 13 Z" fill="var(--accent)" stroke="var(--bg-raised)" stroke-width="1.5" stroke-linejoin="round"/>
+</svg>`
+
+/** Add hillshade raster-dem source + layer to the map */
+function addHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const hs = config?.tileset_hillshade
+  if (!hs?.url) return
+
+  map.addSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster-dem',
+    url: `pmtiles://${hs.url}`,
+    encoding: hs.encoding || 'terrarium',
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: hs.max_zoom || 12,
+  })
+
+  // Insert below the first symbol/label layer for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: HILLSHADE_LAYER,
+    type: 'hillshade',
+    source: HILLSHADE_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'hillshade-exaggeration': 0.5,
+      'hillshade-illumination-direction': 315,
+      'hillshade-shadow-color': '#000000',
+      'hillshade-highlight-color': '#ffffff',
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+}
+
+/** Remove hillshade layer + source */
+function removeHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add traffic raster tile source + layer */
+function addTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tr = config?.traffic
+  if (!tr?.proxy_url) return
+
+  const tileUrl = tr.proxy_url.replace('{z}', '{z}').replace('{x}', '{x}').replace('{y}', '{y}')
+
+  map.addSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster',
+    tiles: [tileUrl],
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: 18,
+  })
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: TRAFFIC_LAYER,
+    type: 'raster',
+    source: TRAFFIC_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'raster-opacity': 0.6,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove traffic layer + source */
+function removeTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add public lands vector tile overlay (PAD-US) */
+function addPublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/public-lands.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below symbol layers for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opacityMod = isDark ? 0.7 : 1.0
+
+  // Fill layer — data-driven color by agency + designation
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL,
+    type: 'fill',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'fill-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#3d6b1f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#5a7c2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#c4a672',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#4a7a5a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SDC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SLB']
+        ], '#5a8c7c',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#8ca694',
+        '#a0a0a0'
+      ],
+      'fill-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        0.15 * opacityMod
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Outline layer
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#2a4a15',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#3d5520',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#8a7343',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#2d5a3a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], '#3d6055',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#5c6e66',
+        '#707070'
+      ],
+      'line-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.7,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.6,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.5,
+        0.5
+      ],
+      'line-width': [
+        'interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'],
+        4, 0.3,
+        8, 0.8,
+        12, 1.2
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Label layer — unit names at zoom 10+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    minzoom: 10,
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['get', 'name'],
+      'text-size': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 10, 10, 14, 13],
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'point',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'text-max-width': 8,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+      'text-ignore-placement': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0c8b8' : '#3a4a30',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove public lands layers + source */
+function removePublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)
+  if (map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add topographic contour vector tile overlay */
+function addContours(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/contours-na.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below first symbol layer (above hillshade, below labels)
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (40ft) — visible z11+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_MINOR,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'minor'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#8b6f47',
+      'line-opacity': 0.4 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (200ft) — visible z8+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'intermediate'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#8b6f47',
+      'line-opacity': 0.7 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (1000ft) — visible z4+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_INDEX,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'index'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#6b4f2a',
+      'line-opacity': 0.9 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Elevation labels on index contours (z12+)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'index'],
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['concat', ['to-string', ['get', 'elevation_ft']], "'"],
+      'text-size': 10,
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'line',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'symbol-spacing': 400,
+      'text-max-angle': 30,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0b898' : '#5a4020',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove contour layers + source */
+function removeContours(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add TEST topographic contour overlay (blue color scheme) */
+function addContoursTest(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE, {
+    type: "vector",
+    url: "pmtiles:///tiles/contours-test.pmtiles",
+  })
+
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === "symbol") {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute("data-theme") === "dark"
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (40ft) — blue scheme
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "minor"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#4a7c9b",
+      "line-opacity": 0.4 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (200ft)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "intermediate"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#4a7c9b",
+      "line-opacity": 0.7 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (1000ft)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#2a5a7c",
+      "line-opacity": 0.9 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Labels
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL,
+    type: "symbol",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    layout: {
+      "text-field": ["concat", ["to-string", ["get", "elevation_ft"]], ""],
+      "text-size": 10,
+      "text-font": ["Noto Sans Regular"],
+      "symbol-placement": "line",
+      "text-anchor": "center",
+      "symbol-spacing": 400,
+      "text-max-angle": 30,
+      "text-allow-overlap": false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      "text-color": isDark ? "#98b8d0" : "#205080",
+      "text-halo-color": isDark ? "#1a1a1a" : "#ffffff",
+      "text-halo-width": 1.5,
+      "text-opacity": 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove TEST contour layers + source */
+function removeContoursTest(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add TEST 10ft topographic contour overlay (green color scheme) */
+function addContoursTest10ft(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE, {
+    type: "vector",
+    url: "pmtiles:///tiles/contours-test-10ft.pmtiles",
+  })
+
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === "symbol") {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute("data-theme") === "dark"
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (10ft) — green scheme
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_MINOR,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "minor"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#3a7c4f",
+      "line-opacity": 0.4 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (50ft) — green scheme
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "intermediate"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#3a7c4f",
+      "line-opacity": 0.7 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (250ft) — darker green
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INDEX,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#2a5c3a",
+      "line-opacity": 0.9 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Elevation labels on index contours (z12+)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_LABEL,
+    type: "symbol",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    layout: {
+      "text-field": ["concat", ["to-string", ["get", "elevation_ft"]], "'"],
+      "text-size": 10,
+      "text-font": ["Noto Sans Regular"],
+      "symbol-placement": "line",
+      "text-anchor": "center",
+      "symbol-spacing": 400,
+      "text-max-angle": 30,
+      "text-allow-overlap": false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      "text-color": isDark ? "#98c0a8" : "#2a4030",
+      "text-halo-color": isDark ? "#1a1a1a" : "#ffffff",
+      "text-halo-width": 1.5,
+      "text-opacity": 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove test 10ft contour layers + source */
+function removeContoursTest10ft(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE)
+}
+
+const MapView = forwardRef(function MapView(_, ref) {
+  const mapRef = useRef(null)
+  const mapInstance = useRef(null)
+  const markersRef = useRef([])
+  const popupRef = useRef(null)
+  const gpsMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const previewMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const watchIdRef = useRef(null)
+  const currentThemeRef = useRef('dark')
+  // Track which overlay layers are currently active (for theme swap re-add)
+  const activeLayersRef = useRef({ hillshade: false, traffic: false, contours: false, contoursTest: false, contoursTest10ft: false })
+  // Flag to suppress map-click when a stop pin was clicked
+  const pinClickedRef = useRef(false)
+
+  const stops = useStore((s) => s.stops)
+  const route = useStore((s) => s.route)
+  const theme = useStore((s) => s.theme)
+  const selectedPlace = useStore((s) => s.selectedPlace)
+  const gpsOrigin = useStore((s) => s.gpsOrigin)
+  const geoPermission = useStore((s) => s.geoPermission)
+  const setSheetState = useStore((s) => s.setSheetState)
+  const setMapCenter = useStore((s) => s.setMapCenter)
+
+  // Zoom level indicator state
+  const [zoomLevel, setZoomLevel] = useState(10)
+
+  // Expose map methods to parent
+  useImperativeHandle(ref, () => ({
+    flyTo(lat, lon, zoom = 14) {
+      mapInstance.current?.flyTo({ center: [lon, lat], zoom })
+    },
+    getMap() {
+      return mapInstance.current
+    },
+    addHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+    },
+    removeHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = false
+    },
+    addTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+    },
+    removeTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = false
+    },
+    addPublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addPublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+    },
+    removePublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removePublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = false
+    },
+    addContoursLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContours(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contours = true
+    },
+    removeContoursLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContours(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contours = false
+    },
+    addContoursTestLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContoursTest(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest = true
+    },
+    removeContoursTestLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContoursTest(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest = false
+    },
+    addContoursTest10ftLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContoursTest10ft(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest10ft = true
+    },
+    removeContoursTest10ftLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContoursTest10ft(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest10ft = false
+    },
+  }))
+
+  // Initialize map
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const protocol = new Protocol()
+    maplibregl.addProtocol('pmtiles', protocol.tile)
+
+    const config = getConfig()
+    const DEFAULT_CENTER = config?.defaults?.center
+      ? [config.defaults.center[1], config.defaults.center[0]]  // config is [lat,lon], MapLibre wants [lon,lat]
+      : [-114.6066, 42.5736]
+    const DEFAULT_ZOOM = config?.defaults?.zoom || 10
+
+    const initialTheme = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') || 'dark'
+    currentThemeRef.current = initialTheme
+
+    const map = new maplibregl.Map({
+      container: mapRef.current,
+      style: buildStyle(initialTheme),
+      center: DEFAULT_CENTER,
+      zoom: DEFAULT_ZOOM,
+    })
+
+    map.addControl(new maplibregl.NavigationControl(), 'top-right')
+
+    // Map click — drop pin and reverse geocode
+    map.on('click', (e) => {
+      // If a stop pin was just clicked, skip the pin-drop
+      if (pinClickedRef.current) {
+        pinClickedRef.current = false
+        return
+      }
+
+      if (window.innerWidth < 768) setSheetState('collapsed')
+
+      const { lng, lat } = e.lngLat
+
+      // Immediately set a "Dropped pin" placeholder so PlaceDetail opens with coords
+      useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+        lat,
+        lon: lng,
+        name: 'Dropped pin',
+        address: null,
+        type: null,
+        source: 'map_click',
+        matchCode: null,
+        raw: {},
+      })
+
+      // Reverse geocode in background — update place when result arrives
+      fetchReverse(lat, lng).then((place) => {
+        if (!place) return
+        // Only update if the selected place is still this pin (user hasn't clicked elsewhere)
+        const current = useStore.getState().selectedPlace
+        if (current && Math.abs(current.lat - lat) < 0.00001 && Math.abs(current.lon - lng) < 0.00001) {
+          useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+            ...place,
+            lat,
+            lon: lng,
+          })
+        }
+      })
+    })
+
+    map.on('load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Restore overlay layers from localStorage prefs
+      try {
+        const raw = localStorage.getItem('navi-layer-prefs')
+        if (raw) {
+          const prefs = JSON.parse(raw)
+          if (prefs.hillshade && hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+            addHillshade(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.traffic && hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')) {
+            addTraffic(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.publicLands && hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')) {
+            addPublicLands(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.contours && hasFeature('has_contours')) {
+            addContours(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.contours = true
+          }
+        } else if (hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+          // Default: hillshade ON if available
+          addHillshade(map)
+          activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+        }
+      } catch {}
+    })
+
+    mapInstance.current = map
+
+    return () => {
+      if (watchIdRef.current != null) navigator.geolocation.clearWatch(watchIdRef.current)
+      if (gpsMarkerRef.current) gpsMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      maplibregl.removeProtocol('pmtiles')
+      map.remove()
+    }
+  }, [setSheetState])
+
+  /** Create or update the GPS chevron/dot marker */
+  function createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, lat, lon, heading) {
+    if (!gpsMarkerRef.current) {
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+        el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+      }
+      gpsMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([lon, lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+    } else {
+      gpsMarkerRef.current.setLngLat([lon, lat])
+      const el = gpsMarkerRef.current.getElement()
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-chevron')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+          el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        }
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-gps-dot')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+          el.innerHTML = ''
+        }
+      }
+    }
+  }
+
+  // React to permission changes from LocateButton (when user grants after initial denial)
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || geoPermission !== 'granted') return
+
+    // If marker already exists, watchPosition is already running — nothing to do
+    if (gpsMarkerRef.current) return
+
+    // Permission was just granted (likely from LocateButton) — create marker + start tracking
+    const loc = useStore.getState().userLocation
+    if (loc) {
+      createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, loc.lat, loc.lon, null)
+    }
+
+    if (!watchIdRef.current) {
+      watchIdRef.current = navigator.geolocation.watchPosition(
+        (pos) => {
+          const { latitude, longitude, heading } = pos.coords
+          useStore.getState().setUserLocation({ lat: latitude, lon: longitude })
+          createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, latitude, longitude, heading)
+        },
+        () => {},
+        { enableHighAccuracy: true, maximumAge: 5000 }
+      )
+    }
+  }, [geoPermission])
+
+    // Swap map theme when store.theme changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || currentThemeRef.current === theme) return
+
+    currentThemeRef.current = theme
+    const center = map.getCenter()
+    const zoom = map.getZoom()
+    const bearing = map.getBearing()
+    const pitch = map.getPitch()
+
+    map.setStyle(buildStyle(theme), { diff: false })
+
+    // Re-add sources/layers after style swap
+    map.once('style.load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Re-add active overlay layers
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.hillshade) addHillshade(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.traffic) addTraffic(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.publicLands) addPublicLands(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.contours) addContours(map)
+
+      // Restore view
+      map.jumpTo({ center, zoom, bearing, pitch })
+      // Re-render route if exists
+      const currentRoute = useStore.getState().route
+      if (currentRoute) updateRoute(map, currentRoute)
+    })
+  }, [theme])
+
+  // Preview pin for selected place
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old preview marker
+    if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+      previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      previewMarkerRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    if (!selectedPlace) return
+
+    // Only fly to place if it came from search (not map-click which already centered)
+    if (selectedPlace.source !== 'map_click') {
+      map.flyTo({ center: [selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat], zoom: 14, duration: 800 })
+    }
+
+    // Create preview marker
+    const el = document.createElement('div')
+    el.className = 'navi-pin-preview'
+    previewMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+      .setLngLat([selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat])
+      .addTo(map)
+
+    return () => {
+      if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+        previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+        previewMarkerRef.current = null
+      }
+    }
+  }, [selectedPlace])
+
+  // Update route polyline when route changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+    if (!map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      const handler = () => updateRoute(map, route)
+      map.once('load', handler)
+      return () => map.off('load', handler)
+    }
+    updateRoute(map, route)
+  }, [route])
+
+  function updateRoute(map, routeData) {
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old route layers
+    const style = map.getStyle()
+    if (style) {
+      for (const layer of style.layers) {
+        if (layer.id.startsWith(ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX)) {
+          map.removeLayer(layer.id)
+        }
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (!routeData || !routeData.legs) {
+      if (map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)) {
+        map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE).setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] })
+      }
+      return
+    }
+
+    const features = []
+    for (let i = 0; i < routeData.legs.length; i++) {
+      const leg = routeData.legs[i]
+      if (!leg.shape) continue
+      const coords = decodePolyline(leg.shape, 6)
+      features.push({
+        type: 'Feature',
+        properties: { legIndex: i },
+        geometry: { type: 'LineString', coordinates: coords },
+      })
+    }
+
+    const source = map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)
+    if (source) {
+      source.setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features })
+    } else {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features },
+      })
+    }
+
+    // Use CSS variable for route color (read computed value)
+    const routeColor = getComputedStyle(document.documentElement).getPropertyValue('--route-line').trim()
+
+    for (let i = 0; i < features.length; i++) {
+      const layerId = `${ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX}${i}`
+      if (!map.getLayer(layerId)) {
+        map.addLayer({
+          id: layerId,
+          type: 'line',
+          source: ROUTE_SOURCE,
+          filter: ['==', ['get', 'legIndex'], i],
+          layout: { 'line-join': 'round', 'line-cap': 'round' },
+          paint: {
+            'line-color': routeColor || '#7a9a6b',
+            'line-width': 5,
+            'line-opacity': 0.85,
+          },
+        })
+      }
+    }
+
+    // Fit bounds to route
+    if (features.length > 0) {
+      const allCoords = features.flatMap((f) => f.geometry.coordinates)
+      const bounds = allCoords.reduce(
+        (b, c) => b.extend(c),
+        new maplibregl.LngLatBounds(allCoords[0], allCoords[0])
+      )
+      const hasDetail = useStore.getState().selectedPlace != null
+      const leftPad = hasDetail ? 700 : 340
+      map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: leftPad, right: 60 } })
+    }
+  }
+
+  // Update stop markers when stops change
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old markers
+    for (const m of markersRef.current) m.remove()
+    markersRef.current = []
+    if (popupRef.current) {
+      popupRef.current.remove()
+      popupRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    const hasGpsOrigin = gpsOrigin && geoPermission === 'granted'
+    const indexOffset = hasGpsOrigin ? 1 : 0
+
+    stops.forEach((stop, i) => {
+      const displayIndex = i + indexOffset
+      const effectiveTotal = stops.length + indexOffset
+
+      let pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--intermediate'
+      if (displayIndex === 0) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--origin'
+      else if (displayIndex === effectiveTotal - 1 && effectiveTotal > 1) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--destination'
+
+      const label = String.fromCharCode(65 + Math.min(displayIndex, 25))
+
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      el.className = pinClass
+      el.textContent = label
+
+      el.addEventListener('click', (e) => {
+        e.stopPropagation()
+        // Flag so the map-level click handler doesn't fire
+        pinClickedRef.current = true
+        if (popupRef.current) popupRef.current.remove()
+        const popup = new maplibregl.Popup({ offset: 20, closeButton: true })
+          .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+          .setHTML(
+            `<div style="font-size:12px;max-width:200px">
+              <strong>${stop.name}</strong>
+              <br/><button id="remove-stop-${stop.id}" style="margin-top:4px;padding:2px 8px;background:var(--status-danger);border:none;border-radius:4px;color:white;cursor:pointer;font-size:11px">Remove</button>
+            </div>`
+          )
+          .addTo(map)
+
+        popup.getElement().querySelector(`#remove-stop-${stop.id}`)?.addEventListener('click', () => {
+          useStore.getState().removeStop(stop.id)
+          popup.remove()
+        })
+        popupRef.current = popup
+      })
+
+      const marker = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+
+      markersRef.current.push(marker)
+    })
+
+    // If stops but no route yet, fit to stops
+    if (stops.length > 0 && !route) {
+      if (stops.length === 1) {
+        map.flyTo({ center: [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], zoom: 13 })
+      } else {
+        const bounds = stops.reduce(
+          (b, s) => b.extend([s.lon, s.lat]),
+          new maplibregl.LngLatBounds([stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat])
+        )
+        map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: 340, right: 60 } })
+      }
+    }
+  }, [stops, route, gpsOrigin, geoPermission])
+
+  // Track zoom level for indicator
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const updateZoom = () => setZoomLevel(map.getZoom())
+    
+    // Set initial zoom
+    if (map.loaded()) {
+      updateZoom()
+    } else {
+      map.once("load", updateZoom)
+    }
+    
+    // Subscribe to zoom changes
+    map.on("zoom", updateZoom)
+    
+    return () => {
+      map.off("zoom", updateZoom)
+    }
+  }, [])
+
+
+  // Track map center for search viewport bias
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const updateCenter = () => {
+      const center = map.getCenter()
+      const zoom = map.getZoom()
+      setMapCenter({ lat: center.lat, lon: center.lng, zoom })
+    }
+
+    // Set initial center
+    if (map.loaded()) {
+      updateCenter()
+    } else {
+      map.once("load", updateCenter)
+    }
+
+    // Update on move end (not every frame)
+    map.on("moveend", updateCenter)
+
+    return () => {
+      map.off("moveend", updateCenter)
+    }
+  }, [setMapCenter])
+
+  return (
+    <div className="relative w-full h-full">
+      <div ref={mapRef} className="w-full h-full" />
+      {/* Zoom level indicator - bottom-left corner */}
+      <div
+        className="absolute bottom-4 left-4 z-50 px-2 py-1 rounded-full text-xs font-mono pointer-events-none"
+        style={{
+          backgroundColor: "rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6)",
+          color: "white",
+          fontSize: "12px",
+          padding: "4px 8px",
+          borderRadius: "12px",
+        }}
+      >
+        Z {zoomLevel.toFixed(1)}
+      </div>
+    </div>
+  )
+})
+
+export default MapView
diff --git a/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.viewport b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.viewport
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ab59664
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.viewport
@@ -0,0 +1,1134 @@
+import { useEffect, useRef, forwardRef, useImperativeHandle, useState } from 'react'
+import maplibregl from 'maplibre-gl'
+import 'maplibre-gl/dist/maplibre-gl.css'
+import { Protocol } from 'pmtiles'
+import { layers, namedTheme } from 'protomaps-themes-base'
+import { useStore } from '../store'
+import { decodePolyline } from '../utils/decode'
+import { fetchReverse } from '../api'
+import { getConfig, hasFeature } from '../config'
+
+const ROUTE_SOURCE = 'route-source'
+const ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX = 'route-layer-'
+const HILLSHADE_SOURCE = 'hillshade-dem'
+const HILLSHADE_LAYER = 'hillshade-layer'
+const TRAFFIC_SOURCE = 'traffic-tiles'
+const TRAFFIC_LAYER = 'traffic-layer'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE = 'public-lands-tiles'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL = 'public-lands-fill'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE = 'public-lands-line'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL = 'public-lands-label'
+const CONTOUR_SOURCE = 'contour-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_MINOR = 'contour-minor'
+const CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_INDEX = 'contour-index'
+const CONTOUR_LABEL = 'contour-label'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE = 'contour-test-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR = 'contour-test-minor'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-test-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX = 'contour-test-index'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL = 'contour-test-label'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE = 'contour-test-10ft-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_MINOR = 'contour-test-10ft-minor'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-test-10ft-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INDEX = 'contour-test-10ft-index'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_LABEL = 'contour-test-10ft-label'
+
+/** Build a full MapLibre style object for the given theme */
+function buildStyle(themeName) {
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tileUrl = config?.tileset?.url || '/tiles/na.pmtiles'
+  const attribution = config?.tileset?.attribution || 'Protomaps \u00a9 OSM'
+
+  return {
+    version: 8,
+    glyphs: 'https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf',
+    sprite: `https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/sprites/v4/${themeName}`,
+    sources: {
+      protomaps: {
+        type: 'vector',
+        url: `pmtiles://${tileUrl}`,
+        attribution,
+      },
+    },
+    layers: layers('protomaps', namedTheme(themeName), { lang: 'en' }),
+  }
+}
+
+/** SVG for ATAK-style chevron pointing up (will be rotated via CSS) */
+const CHEVRON_SVG = `<svg width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 16 16" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg">
+  <path d="M8 1 L14 13 L8 10 L2 13 Z" fill="var(--accent)" stroke="var(--bg-raised)" stroke-width="1.5" stroke-linejoin="round"/>
+</svg>`
+
+/** Add hillshade raster-dem source + layer to the map */
+function addHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const hs = config?.tileset_hillshade
+  if (!hs?.url) return
+
+  map.addSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster-dem',
+    url: `pmtiles://${hs.url}`,
+    encoding: hs.encoding || 'terrarium',
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: hs.max_zoom || 12,
+  })
+
+  // Insert below the first symbol/label layer for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: HILLSHADE_LAYER,
+    type: 'hillshade',
+    source: HILLSHADE_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'hillshade-exaggeration': 0.5,
+      'hillshade-illumination-direction': 315,
+      'hillshade-shadow-color': '#000000',
+      'hillshade-highlight-color': '#ffffff',
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+}
+
+/** Remove hillshade layer + source */
+function removeHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add traffic raster tile source + layer */
+function addTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tr = config?.traffic
+  if (!tr?.proxy_url) return
+
+  const tileUrl = tr.proxy_url.replace('{z}', '{z}').replace('{x}', '{x}').replace('{y}', '{y}')
+
+  map.addSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster',
+    tiles: [tileUrl],
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: 18,
+  })
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: TRAFFIC_LAYER,
+    type: 'raster',
+    source: TRAFFIC_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'raster-opacity': 0.6,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove traffic layer + source */
+function removeTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add public lands vector tile overlay (PAD-US) */
+function addPublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/public-lands.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below symbol layers for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opacityMod = isDark ? 0.7 : 1.0
+
+  // Fill layer — data-driven color by agency + designation
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL,
+    type: 'fill',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'fill-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#3d6b1f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#5a7c2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#c4a672',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#4a7a5a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SDC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SLB']
+        ], '#5a8c7c',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#8ca694',
+        '#a0a0a0'
+      ],
+      'fill-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        0.15 * opacityMod
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Outline layer
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#2a4a15',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#3d5520',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#8a7343',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#2d5a3a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], '#3d6055',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#5c6e66',
+        '#707070'
+      ],
+      'line-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.7,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.6,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.5,
+        0.5
+      ],
+      'line-width': [
+        'interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'],
+        4, 0.3,
+        8, 0.8,
+        12, 1.2
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Label layer — unit names at zoom 10+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    minzoom: 10,
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['get', 'name'],
+      'text-size': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 10, 10, 14, 13],
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'point',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'text-max-width': 8,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+      'text-ignore-placement': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0c8b8' : '#3a4a30',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove public lands layers + source */
+function removePublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)
+  if (map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add topographic contour vector tile overlay */
+function addContours(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/contours-na.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below first symbol layer (above hillshade, below labels)
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (40ft) — visible z11+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_MINOR,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'minor'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#8b6f47',
+      'line-opacity': 0.4 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (200ft) — visible z8+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'intermediate'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#8b6f47',
+      'line-opacity': 0.7 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (1000ft) — visible z4+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_INDEX,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'index'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#6b4f2a',
+      'line-opacity': 0.9 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Elevation labels on index contours (z12+)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'index'],
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['concat', ['to-string', ['get', 'elevation_ft']], "'"],
+      'text-size': 10,
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'line',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'symbol-spacing': 400,
+      'text-max-angle': 30,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0b898' : '#5a4020',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove contour layers + source */
+function removeContours(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add TEST topographic contour overlay (blue color scheme) */
+function addContoursTest(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE, {
+    type: "vector",
+    url: "pmtiles:///tiles/contours-test.pmtiles",
+  })
+
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === "symbol") {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute("data-theme") === "dark"
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (40ft) — blue scheme
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "minor"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#4a7c9b",
+      "line-opacity": 0.4 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (200ft)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "intermediate"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#4a7c9b",
+      "line-opacity": 0.7 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (1000ft)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#2a5a7c",
+      "line-opacity": 0.9 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Labels
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL,
+    type: "symbol",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    layout: {
+      "text-field": ["concat", ["to-string", ["get", "elevation_ft"]], ""],
+      "text-size": 10,
+      "text-font": ["Noto Sans Regular"],
+      "symbol-placement": "line",
+      "text-anchor": "center",
+      "symbol-spacing": 400,
+      "text-max-angle": 30,
+      "text-allow-overlap": false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      "text-color": isDark ? "#98b8d0" : "#205080",
+      "text-halo-color": isDark ? "#1a1a1a" : "#ffffff",
+      "text-halo-width": 1.5,
+      "text-opacity": 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove TEST contour layers + source */
+function removeContoursTest(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add TEST 10ft topographic contour overlay (green color scheme) */
+function addContoursTest10ft(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE, {
+    type: "vector",
+    url: "pmtiles:///tiles/contours-test-10ft.pmtiles",
+  })
+
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === "symbol") {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute("data-theme") === "dark"
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (10ft) — green scheme
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_MINOR,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "minor"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#3a7c4f",
+      "line-opacity": 0.4 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (50ft) — green scheme
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "intermediate"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#3a7c4f",
+      "line-opacity": 0.7 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (250ft) — darker green
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INDEX,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#2a5c3a",
+      "line-opacity": 0.9 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Elevation labels on index contours (z12+)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_LABEL,
+    type: "symbol",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    layout: {
+      "text-field": ["concat", ["to-string", ["get", "elevation_ft"]], "'"],
+      "text-size": 10,
+      "text-font": ["Noto Sans Regular"],
+      "symbol-placement": "line",
+      "text-anchor": "center",
+      "symbol-spacing": 400,
+      "text-max-angle": 30,
+      "text-allow-overlap": false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      "text-color": isDark ? "#98c0a8" : "#2a4030",
+      "text-halo-color": isDark ? "#1a1a1a" : "#ffffff",
+      "text-halo-width": 1.5,
+      "text-opacity": 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove test 10ft contour layers + source */
+function removeContoursTest10ft(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_TEST_10FT_SOURCE)
+}
+
+const MapView = forwardRef(function MapView(_, ref) {
+  const mapRef = useRef(null)
+  const mapInstance = useRef(null)
+  const markersRef = useRef([])
+  const popupRef = useRef(null)
+  const gpsMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const previewMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const watchIdRef = useRef(null)
+  const currentThemeRef = useRef('dark')
+  // Track which overlay layers are currently active (for theme swap re-add)
+  const activeLayersRef = useRef({ hillshade: false, traffic: false, contours: false, contoursTest: false, contoursTest10ft: false })
+  // Flag to suppress map-click when a stop pin was clicked
+  const pinClickedRef = useRef(false)
+
+  const stops = useStore((s) => s.stops)
+  const route = useStore((s) => s.route)
+  const theme = useStore((s) => s.theme)
+  const selectedPlace = useStore((s) => s.selectedPlace)
+  const gpsOrigin = useStore((s) => s.gpsOrigin)
+  const geoPermission = useStore((s) => s.geoPermission)
+  const setSheetState = useStore((s) => s.setSheetState)
+
+  // Zoom level indicator state
+  const [zoomLevel, setZoomLevel] = useState(10)
+
+  // Expose map methods to parent
+  useImperativeHandle(ref, () => ({
+    flyTo(lat, lon, zoom = 14) {
+      mapInstance.current?.flyTo({ center: [lon, lat], zoom })
+    },
+    getMap() {
+      return mapInstance.current
+    },
+    addHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+    },
+    removeHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = false
+    },
+    addTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+    },
+    removeTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = false
+    },
+    addPublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addPublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+    },
+    removePublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removePublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = false
+    },
+    addContoursLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContours(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contours = true
+    },
+    removeContoursLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContours(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contours = false
+    },
+    addContoursTestLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContoursTest(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest = true
+    },
+    removeContoursTestLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContoursTest(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest = false
+    },
+    addContoursTest10ftLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContoursTest10ft(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest10ft = true
+    },
+    removeContoursTest10ftLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContoursTest10ft(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest10ft = false
+    },
+  }))
+
+  // Initialize map
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const protocol = new Protocol()
+    maplibregl.addProtocol('pmtiles', protocol.tile)
+
+    const config = getConfig()
+    const DEFAULT_CENTER = config?.defaults?.center
+      ? [config.defaults.center[1], config.defaults.center[0]]  // config is [lat,lon], MapLibre wants [lon,lat]
+      : [-114.6066, 42.5736]
+    const DEFAULT_ZOOM = config?.defaults?.zoom || 10
+
+    const initialTheme = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') || 'dark'
+    currentThemeRef.current = initialTheme
+
+    const map = new maplibregl.Map({
+      container: mapRef.current,
+      style: buildStyle(initialTheme),
+      center: DEFAULT_CENTER,
+      zoom: DEFAULT_ZOOM,
+    })
+
+    map.addControl(new maplibregl.NavigationControl(), 'top-right')
+
+    // Map click — drop pin and reverse geocode
+    map.on('click', (e) => {
+      // If a stop pin was just clicked, skip the pin-drop
+      if (pinClickedRef.current) {
+        pinClickedRef.current = false
+        return
+      }
+
+      if (window.innerWidth < 768) setSheetState('collapsed')
+
+      const { lng, lat } = e.lngLat
+
+      // Immediately set a "Dropped pin" placeholder so PlaceDetail opens with coords
+      useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+        lat,
+        lon: lng,
+        name: 'Dropped pin',
+        address: null,
+        type: null,
+        source: 'map_click',
+        matchCode: null,
+        raw: {},
+      })
+
+      // Reverse geocode in background — update place when result arrives
+      fetchReverse(lat, lng).then((place) => {
+        if (!place) return
+        // Only update if the selected place is still this pin (user hasn't clicked elsewhere)
+        const current = useStore.getState().selectedPlace
+        if (current && Math.abs(current.lat - lat) < 0.00001 && Math.abs(current.lon - lng) < 0.00001) {
+          useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+            ...place,
+            lat,
+            lon: lng,
+          })
+        }
+      })
+    })
+
+    map.on('load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Restore overlay layers from localStorage prefs
+      try {
+        const raw = localStorage.getItem('navi-layer-prefs')
+        if (raw) {
+          const prefs = JSON.parse(raw)
+          if (prefs.hillshade && hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+            addHillshade(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.traffic && hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')) {
+            addTraffic(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.publicLands && hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')) {
+            addPublicLands(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.contours && hasFeature('has_contours')) {
+            addContours(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.contours = true
+          }
+        } else if (hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+          // Default: hillshade ON if available
+          addHillshade(map)
+          activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+        }
+      } catch {}
+    })
+
+    mapInstance.current = map
+
+    return () => {
+      if (watchIdRef.current != null) navigator.geolocation.clearWatch(watchIdRef.current)
+      if (gpsMarkerRef.current) gpsMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      maplibregl.removeProtocol('pmtiles')
+      map.remove()
+    }
+  }, [setSheetState])
+
+  /** Create or update the GPS chevron/dot marker */
+  function createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, lat, lon, heading) {
+    if (!gpsMarkerRef.current) {
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+        el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+      }
+      gpsMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([lon, lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+    } else {
+      gpsMarkerRef.current.setLngLat([lon, lat])
+      const el = gpsMarkerRef.current.getElement()
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-chevron')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+          el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        }
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-gps-dot')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+          el.innerHTML = ''
+        }
+      }
+    }
+  }
+
+  // React to permission changes from LocateButton (when user grants after initial denial)
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || geoPermission !== 'granted') return
+
+    // If marker already exists, watchPosition is already running — nothing to do
+    if (gpsMarkerRef.current) return
+
+    // Permission was just granted (likely from LocateButton) — create marker + start tracking
+    const loc = useStore.getState().userLocation
+    if (loc) {
+      createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, loc.lat, loc.lon, null)
+    }
+
+    if (!watchIdRef.current) {
+      watchIdRef.current = navigator.geolocation.watchPosition(
+        (pos) => {
+          const { latitude, longitude, heading } = pos.coords
+          useStore.getState().setUserLocation({ lat: latitude, lon: longitude })
+          createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, latitude, longitude, heading)
+        },
+        () => {},
+        { enableHighAccuracy: true, maximumAge: 5000 }
+      )
+    }
+  }, [geoPermission])
+
+    // Swap map theme when store.theme changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || currentThemeRef.current === theme) return
+
+    currentThemeRef.current = theme
+    const center = map.getCenter()
+    const zoom = map.getZoom()
+    const bearing = map.getBearing()
+    const pitch = map.getPitch()
+
+    map.setStyle(buildStyle(theme), { diff: false })
+
+    // Re-add sources/layers after style swap
+    map.once('style.load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Re-add active overlay layers
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.hillshade) addHillshade(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.traffic) addTraffic(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.publicLands) addPublicLands(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.contours) addContours(map)
+
+      // Restore view
+      map.jumpTo({ center, zoom, bearing, pitch })
+      // Re-render route if exists
+      const currentRoute = useStore.getState().route
+      if (currentRoute) updateRoute(map, currentRoute)
+    })
+  }, [theme])
+
+  // Preview pin for selected place
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old preview marker
+    if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+      previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      previewMarkerRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    if (!selectedPlace) return
+
+    // Only fly to place if it came from search (not map-click which already centered)
+    if (selectedPlace.source !== 'map_click') {
+      map.flyTo({ center: [selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat], zoom: 14, duration: 800 })
+    }
+
+    // Create preview marker
+    const el = document.createElement('div')
+    el.className = 'navi-pin-preview'
+    previewMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+      .setLngLat([selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat])
+      .addTo(map)
+
+    return () => {
+      if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+        previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+        previewMarkerRef.current = null
+      }
+    }
+  }, [selectedPlace])
+
+  // Update route polyline when route changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+    if (!map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      const handler = () => updateRoute(map, route)
+      map.once('load', handler)
+      return () => map.off('load', handler)
+    }
+    updateRoute(map, route)
+  }, [route])
+
+  function updateRoute(map, routeData) {
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old route layers
+    const style = map.getStyle()
+    if (style) {
+      for (const layer of style.layers) {
+        if (layer.id.startsWith(ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX)) {
+          map.removeLayer(layer.id)
+        }
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (!routeData || !routeData.legs) {
+      if (map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)) {
+        map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE).setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] })
+      }
+      return
+    }
+
+    const features = []
+    for (let i = 0; i < routeData.legs.length; i++) {
+      const leg = routeData.legs[i]
+      if (!leg.shape) continue
+      const coords = decodePolyline(leg.shape, 6)
+      features.push({
+        type: 'Feature',
+        properties: { legIndex: i },
+        geometry: { type: 'LineString', coordinates: coords },
+      })
+    }
+
+    const source = map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)
+    if (source) {
+      source.setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features })
+    } else {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features },
+      })
+    }
+
+    // Use CSS variable for route color (read computed value)
+    const routeColor = getComputedStyle(document.documentElement).getPropertyValue('--route-line').trim()
+
+    for (let i = 0; i < features.length; i++) {
+      const layerId = `${ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX}${i}`
+      if (!map.getLayer(layerId)) {
+        map.addLayer({
+          id: layerId,
+          type: 'line',
+          source: ROUTE_SOURCE,
+          filter: ['==', ['get', 'legIndex'], i],
+          layout: { 'line-join': 'round', 'line-cap': 'round' },
+          paint: {
+            'line-color': routeColor || '#7a9a6b',
+            'line-width': 5,
+            'line-opacity': 0.85,
+          },
+        })
+      }
+    }
+
+    // Fit bounds to route
+    if (features.length > 0) {
+      const allCoords = features.flatMap((f) => f.geometry.coordinates)
+      const bounds = allCoords.reduce(
+        (b, c) => b.extend(c),
+        new maplibregl.LngLatBounds(allCoords[0], allCoords[0])
+      )
+      const hasDetail = useStore.getState().selectedPlace != null
+      const leftPad = hasDetail ? 700 : 340
+      map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: leftPad, right: 60 } })
+    }
+  }
+
+  // Update stop markers when stops change
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old markers
+    for (const m of markersRef.current) m.remove()
+    markersRef.current = []
+    if (popupRef.current) {
+      popupRef.current.remove()
+      popupRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    const hasGpsOrigin = gpsOrigin && geoPermission === 'granted'
+    const indexOffset = hasGpsOrigin ? 1 : 0
+
+    stops.forEach((stop, i) => {
+      const displayIndex = i + indexOffset
+      const effectiveTotal = stops.length + indexOffset
+
+      let pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--intermediate'
+      if (displayIndex === 0) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--origin'
+      else if (displayIndex === effectiveTotal - 1 && effectiveTotal > 1) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--destination'
+
+      const label = String.fromCharCode(65 + Math.min(displayIndex, 25))
+
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      el.className = pinClass
+      el.textContent = label
+
+      el.addEventListener('click', (e) => {
+        e.stopPropagation()
+        // Flag so the map-level click handler doesn't fire
+        pinClickedRef.current = true
+        if (popupRef.current) popupRef.current.remove()
+        const popup = new maplibregl.Popup({ offset: 20, closeButton: true })
+          .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+          .setHTML(
+            `<div style="font-size:12px;max-width:200px">
+              <strong>${stop.name}</strong>
+              <br/><button id="remove-stop-${stop.id}" style="margin-top:4px;padding:2px 8px;background:var(--status-danger);border:none;border-radius:4px;color:white;cursor:pointer;font-size:11px">Remove</button>
+            </div>`
+          )
+          .addTo(map)
+
+        popup.getElement().querySelector(`#remove-stop-${stop.id}`)?.addEventListener('click', () => {
+          useStore.getState().removeStop(stop.id)
+          popup.remove()
+        })
+        popupRef.current = popup
+      })
+
+      const marker = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+
+      markersRef.current.push(marker)
+    })
+
+    // If stops but no route yet, fit to stops
+    if (stops.length > 0 && !route) {
+      if (stops.length === 1) {
+        map.flyTo({ center: [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], zoom: 13 })
+      } else {
+        const bounds = stops.reduce(
+          (b, s) => b.extend([s.lon, s.lat]),
+          new maplibregl.LngLatBounds([stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat])
+        )
+        map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: 340, right: 60 } })
+      }
+    }
+  }, [stops, route, gpsOrigin, geoPermission])
+
+  // Track zoom level for indicator
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    const updateZoom = () => setZoomLevel(map.getZoom())
+    
+    // Set initial zoom
+    if (map.loaded()) {
+      updateZoom()
+    } else {
+      map.once("load", updateZoom)
+    }
+    
+    // Subscribe to zoom changes
+    map.on("zoom", updateZoom)
+    
+    return () => {
+      map.off("zoom", updateZoom)
+    }
+  }, [])
+
+  return (
+    <div className="relative w-full h-full">
+      <div ref={mapRef} className="w-full h-full" />
+      {/* Zoom level indicator - bottom-left corner */}
+      <div
+        className="absolute bottom-4 left-4 z-50 px-2 py-1 rounded-full text-xs font-mono pointer-events-none"
+        style={{
+          backgroundColor: "rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.6)",
+          color: "white",
+          fontSize: "12px",
+          padding: "4px 8px",
+          borderRadius: "12px",
+        }}
+      >
+        Z {zoomLevel.toFixed(1)}
+      </div>
+    </div>
+  )
+})
+
+export default MapView
diff --git a/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.zoom b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.zoom
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2d42640
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/components/MapView.jsx.bak.zoom
@@ -0,0 +1,973 @@
+import { useEffect, useRef, forwardRef, useImperativeHandle } from 'react'
+import maplibregl from 'maplibre-gl'
+import 'maplibre-gl/dist/maplibre-gl.css'
+import { Protocol } from 'pmtiles'
+import { layers, namedTheme } from 'protomaps-themes-base'
+import { useStore } from '../store'
+import { decodePolyline } from '../utils/decode'
+import { fetchReverse } from '../api'
+import { getConfig, hasFeature } from '../config'
+
+const ROUTE_SOURCE = 'route-source'
+const ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX = 'route-layer-'
+const HILLSHADE_SOURCE = 'hillshade-dem'
+const HILLSHADE_LAYER = 'hillshade-layer'
+const TRAFFIC_SOURCE = 'traffic-tiles'
+const TRAFFIC_LAYER = 'traffic-layer'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE = 'public-lands-tiles'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL = 'public-lands-fill'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE = 'public-lands-line'
+const PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL = 'public-lands-label'
+const CONTOUR_SOURCE = 'contour-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_MINOR = 'contour-minor'
+const CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_INDEX = 'contour-index'
+const CONTOUR_LABEL = 'contour-label'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE = 'contour-test-tiles'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR = 'contour-test-minor'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE = 'contour-test-intermediate'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX = 'contour-test-index'
+const CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL = 'contour-test-label'
+
+/** Build a full MapLibre style object for the given theme */
+function buildStyle(themeName) {
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tileUrl = config?.tileset?.url || '/tiles/na.pmtiles'
+  const attribution = config?.tileset?.attribution || 'Protomaps \u00a9 OSM'
+
+  return {
+    version: 8,
+    glyphs: 'https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/fonts/{fontstack}/{range}.pbf',
+    sprite: `https://protomaps.github.io/basemaps-assets/sprites/v4/${themeName}`,
+    sources: {
+      protomaps: {
+        type: 'vector',
+        url: `pmtiles://${tileUrl}`,
+        attribution,
+      },
+    },
+    layers: layers('protomaps', namedTheme(themeName), { lang: 'en' }),
+  }
+}
+
+/** SVG for ATAK-style chevron pointing up (will be rotated via CSS) */
+const CHEVRON_SVG = `<svg width="16" height="16" viewBox="0 0 16 16" xmlns="http://www.w3.org/2000/svg">
+  <path d="M8 1 L14 13 L8 10 L2 13 Z" fill="var(--accent)" stroke="var(--bg-raised)" stroke-width="1.5" stroke-linejoin="round"/>
+</svg>`
+
+/** Add hillshade raster-dem source + layer to the map */
+function addHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const hs = config?.tileset_hillshade
+  if (!hs?.url) return
+
+  map.addSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster-dem',
+    url: `pmtiles://${hs.url}`,
+    encoding: hs.encoding || 'terrarium',
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: hs.max_zoom || 12,
+  })
+
+  // Insert below the first symbol/label layer for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: HILLSHADE_LAYER,
+    type: 'hillshade',
+    source: HILLSHADE_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'hillshade-exaggeration': 0.5,
+      'hillshade-illumination-direction': 315,
+      'hillshade-shadow-color': '#000000',
+      'hillshade-highlight-color': '#ffffff',
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+}
+
+/** Remove hillshade layer + source */
+function removeHillshade(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(HILLSHADE_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(HILLSHADE_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add traffic raster tile source + layer */
+function addTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) return
+  const config = getConfig()
+  const tr = config?.traffic
+  if (!tr?.proxy_url) return
+
+  const tileUrl = tr.proxy_url.replace('{z}', '{z}').replace('{x}', '{x}').replace('{y}', '{y}')
+
+  map.addSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'raster',
+    tiles: [tileUrl],
+    tileSize: 256,
+    maxzoom: 18,
+  })
+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: TRAFFIC_LAYER,
+    type: 'raster',
+    source: TRAFFIC_SOURCE,
+    paint: {
+      'raster-opacity': 0.6,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove traffic layer + source */
+function removeTraffic(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)) map.removeLayer(TRAFFIC_LAYER)
+  if (map.getSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(TRAFFIC_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add public lands vector tile overlay (PAD-US) */
+function addPublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/public-lands.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below symbol layers for proper z-ordering
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opacityMod = isDark ? 0.7 : 1.0
+
+  // Fill layer — data-driven color by agency + designation
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL,
+    type: 'fill',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'fill-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#7c6b2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#3d6b1f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#5a7c2f',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#c4a672',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#4a7a5a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SDC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SLB']
+        ], '#5a8c7c',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#8ca694',
+        '#a0a0a0'
+      ],
+      'fill-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.30 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], 0.25 * opacityMod,
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], 0.20 * opacityMod,
+        0.15 * opacityMod
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Outline layer
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'designation'], 'WSA'], '#5a4d20',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], '#2a4a15',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], '#3d5520',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], '#8a7343',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'FWS'], '#2d5a3a',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'STAT'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'SPR']
+        ], '#3d6055',
+        ['any',
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'LOC'],
+          ['==', ['get', 'manager_type'], 'DIST']
+        ], '#5c6e66',
+        '#707070'
+      ],
+      'line-opacity': [
+        'case',
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'NPS'], 0.7,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'USFS'], 0.6,
+        ['==', ['get', 'agency'], 'BLM'], 0.5,
+        0.5
+      ],
+      'line-width': [
+        'interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'],
+        4, 0.3,
+        8, 0.8,
+        12, 1.2
+      ],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Label layer — unit names at zoom 10+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'public_lands',
+    minzoom: 10,
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['get', 'name'],
+      'text-size': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 10, 10, 14, 13],
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'point',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'text-max-width': 8,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+      'text-ignore-placement': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0c8b8' : '#3a4a30',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove public lands layers + source */
+function removePublicLands(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_LINE)
+  if (map.getLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)) map.removeLayer(PUBLIC_LANDS_FILL)
+  if (map.getSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(PUBLIC_LANDS_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add topographic contour vector tile overlay */
+function addContours(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE, {
+    type: 'vector',
+    url: 'pmtiles:///tiles/contours-na.pmtiles',
+  })
+
+  // Insert below first symbol layer (above hillshade, below labels)
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === 'symbol') {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') === 'dark'
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (40ft) — visible z11+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_MINOR,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'minor'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#8b6f47',
+      'line-opacity': 0.4 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (200ft) — visible z8+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'intermediate'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#8b6f47',
+      'line-opacity': 0.7 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (1000ft) — visible z4+
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_INDEX,
+    type: 'line',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'index'],
+    paint: {
+      'line-color': '#6b4f2a',
+      'line-opacity': 0.9 * opMod,
+      'line-width': ['interpolate', ['linear'], ['zoom'], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Elevation labels on index contours (z12+)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_LABEL,
+    type: 'symbol',
+    source: CONTOUR_SOURCE,
+    'source-layer': 'contours',
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ['==', ['get', 'tier'], 'index'],
+    layout: {
+      'text-field': ['concat', ['to-string', ['get', 'elevation_ft']], "'"],
+      'text-size': 10,
+      'text-font': ['Noto Sans Regular'],
+      'symbol-placement': 'line',
+      'text-anchor': 'center',
+      'symbol-spacing': 400,
+      'text-max-angle': 30,
+      'text-allow-overlap': false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      'text-color': isDark ? '#c0b898' : '#5a4020',
+      'text-halo-color': isDark ? '#1a1a1a' : '#ffffff',
+      'text-halo-width': 1.5,
+      'text-opacity': 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove contour layers + source */
+function removeContours(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_SOURCE)
+}
+
+/** Add TEST topographic contour overlay (blue color scheme) */
+function addContoursTest(map) {
+  if (!map || map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)) return
+
+  map.addSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE, {
+    type: "vector",
+    url: "pmtiles:///tiles/contours-test.pmtiles",
+  })
+
+  let beforeId = undefined
+  for (const layer of map.getStyle().layers) {
+    if (layer.type === "symbol") {
+      beforeId = layer.id
+      break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const isDark = document.documentElement.getAttribute("data-theme") === "dark"
+  const opMod = isDark ? 0.8 : 1.0
+
+  // Minor contours (40ft) — blue scheme
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 11,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "minor"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#4a7c9b",
+      "line-opacity": 0.4 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 11, 0.5, 14, 1.0],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Intermediate contours (200ft)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 8,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "intermediate"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#4a7c9b",
+      "line-opacity": 0.7 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 8, 0.8, 14, 1.2],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Index contours (1000ft)
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX,
+    type: "line",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 4,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    paint: {
+      "line-color": "#2a5a7c",
+      "line-opacity": 0.9 * opMod,
+      "line-width": ["interpolate", ["linear"], ["zoom"], 4, 1.2, 14, 1.8],
+    },
+  }, beforeId)
+
+  // Labels
+  map.addLayer({
+    id: CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL,
+    type: "symbol",
+    source: CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE,
+    "source-layer": "contours",
+    minzoom: 12,
+    filter: ["==", ["get", "tier"], "index"],
+    layout: {
+      "text-field": ["concat", ["to-string", ["get", "elevation_ft"]], ""],
+      "text-size": 10,
+      "text-font": ["Noto Sans Regular"],
+      "symbol-placement": "line",
+      "text-anchor": "center",
+      "symbol-spacing": 400,
+      "text-max-angle": 30,
+      "text-allow-overlap": false,
+    },
+    paint: {
+      "text-color": isDark ? "#98b8d0" : "#205080",
+      "text-halo-color": isDark ? "#1a1a1a" : "#ffffff",
+      "text-halo-width": 1.5,
+      "text-opacity": 0.85,
+    },
+  })
+}
+
+/** Remove TEST contour layers + source */
+function removeContoursTest(map) {
+  if (!map) return
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_LABEL)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INDEX)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_INTERMEDIATE)
+  if (map.getLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR)) map.removeLayer(CONTOUR_TEST_MINOR)
+  if (map.getSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)) map.removeSource(CONTOUR_TEST_SOURCE)
+}
+
+const MapView = forwardRef(function MapView(_, ref) {
+  const mapRef = useRef(null)
+  const mapInstance = useRef(null)
+  const markersRef = useRef([])
+  const popupRef = useRef(null)
+  const gpsMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const previewMarkerRef = useRef(null)
+  const watchIdRef = useRef(null)
+  const currentThemeRef = useRef('dark')
+  // Track which overlay layers are currently active (for theme swap re-add)
+  const activeLayersRef = useRef({ hillshade: false, traffic: false, contours: false, contoursTest: false })
+  // Flag to suppress map-click when a stop pin was clicked
+  const pinClickedRef = useRef(false)
+
+  const stops = useStore((s) => s.stops)
+  const route = useStore((s) => s.route)
+  const theme = useStore((s) => s.theme)
+  const selectedPlace = useStore((s) => s.selectedPlace)
+  const gpsOrigin = useStore((s) => s.gpsOrigin)
+  const geoPermission = useStore((s) => s.geoPermission)
+  const setSheetState = useStore((s) => s.setSheetState)
+
+  // Expose map methods to parent
+  useImperativeHandle(ref, () => ({
+    flyTo(lat, lon, zoom = 14) {
+      mapInstance.current?.flyTo({ center: [lon, lat], zoom })
+    },
+    getMap() {
+      return mapInstance.current
+    },
+    addHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+    },
+    removeHillshadeLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeHillshade(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = false
+    },
+    addTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+    },
+    removeTrafficLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeTraffic(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.traffic = false
+    },
+    addPublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addPublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+    },
+    removePublicLandsLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removePublicLands(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = false
+    },
+    addContoursLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContours(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contours = true
+    },
+    removeContoursLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContours(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contours = false
+    },
+    addContoursTestLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      addContoursTest(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest = true
+    },
+    removeContoursTestLayer() {
+      const map = mapInstance.current
+      if (!map) return
+      removeContoursTest(map)
+      activeLayersRef.current.contoursTest = false
+    },
+  }))
+
+  // Initialize map
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const protocol = new Protocol()
+    maplibregl.addProtocol('pmtiles', protocol.tile)
+
+    const config = getConfig()
+    const DEFAULT_CENTER = config?.defaults?.center
+      ? [config.defaults.center[1], config.defaults.center[0]]  // config is [lat,lon], MapLibre wants [lon,lat]
+      : [-114.6066, 42.5736]
+    const DEFAULT_ZOOM = config?.defaults?.zoom || 10
+
+    const initialTheme = document.documentElement.getAttribute('data-theme') || 'dark'
+    currentThemeRef.current = initialTheme
+
+    const map = new maplibregl.Map({
+      container: mapRef.current,
+      style: buildStyle(initialTheme),
+      center: DEFAULT_CENTER,
+      zoom: DEFAULT_ZOOM,
+    })
+
+    map.addControl(new maplibregl.NavigationControl(), 'top-right')
+
+    // Map click — drop pin and reverse geocode
+    map.on('click', (e) => {
+      // If a stop pin was just clicked, skip the pin-drop
+      if (pinClickedRef.current) {
+        pinClickedRef.current = false
+        return
+      }
+
+      if (window.innerWidth < 768) setSheetState('collapsed')
+
+      const { lng, lat } = e.lngLat
+
+      // Immediately set a "Dropped pin" placeholder so PlaceDetail opens with coords
+      useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+        lat,
+        lon: lng,
+        name: 'Dropped pin',
+        address: null,
+        type: null,
+        source: 'map_click',
+        matchCode: null,
+        raw: {},
+      })
+
+      // Reverse geocode in background — update place when result arrives
+      fetchReverse(lat, lng).then((place) => {
+        if (!place) return
+        // Only update if the selected place is still this pin (user hasn't clicked elsewhere)
+        const current = useStore.getState().selectedPlace
+        if (current && Math.abs(current.lat - lat) < 0.00001 && Math.abs(current.lon - lng) < 0.00001) {
+          useStore.getState().setSelectedPlace({
+            ...place,
+            lat,
+            lon: lng,
+          })
+        }
+      })
+    })
+
+    map.on('load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Restore overlay layers from localStorage prefs
+      try {
+        const raw = localStorage.getItem('navi-layer-prefs')
+        if (raw) {
+          const prefs = JSON.parse(raw)
+          if (prefs.hillshade && hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+            addHillshade(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.traffic && hasFeature('has_traffic_overlay')) {
+            addTraffic(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.traffic = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.publicLands && hasFeature('has_public_lands_layer')) {
+            addPublicLands(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.publicLands = true
+          }
+          if (prefs.contours && hasFeature('has_contours')) {
+            addContours(map)
+            activeLayersRef.current.contours = true
+          }
+        } else if (hasFeature('has_hillshade')) {
+          // Default: hillshade ON if available
+          addHillshade(map)
+          activeLayersRef.current.hillshade = true
+        }
+      } catch {}
+    })
+
+    mapInstance.current = map
+
+    return () => {
+      if (watchIdRef.current != null) navigator.geolocation.clearWatch(watchIdRef.current)
+      if (gpsMarkerRef.current) gpsMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      maplibregl.removeProtocol('pmtiles')
+      map.remove()
+    }
+  }, [setSheetState])
+
+  /** Create or update the GPS chevron/dot marker */
+  function createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, lat, lon, heading) {
+    if (!gpsMarkerRef.current) {
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+        el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+      }
+      gpsMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([lon, lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+    } else {
+      gpsMarkerRef.current.setLngLat([lon, lat])
+      const el = gpsMarkerRef.current.getElement()
+      if (heading != null && !isNaN(heading)) {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-chevron')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-chevron'
+          el.innerHTML = CHEVRON_SVG
+        }
+        el.style.transform = `rotate(${heading}deg)`
+      } else {
+        if (!el.classList.contains('navi-gps-dot')) {
+          el.className = 'navi-gps-dot'
+          el.innerHTML = ''
+        }
+      }
+    }
+  }
+
+  // React to permission changes from LocateButton (when user grants after initial denial)
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || geoPermission !== 'granted') return
+
+    // If marker already exists, watchPosition is already running — nothing to do
+    if (gpsMarkerRef.current) return
+
+    // Permission was just granted (likely from LocateButton) — create marker + start tracking
+    const loc = useStore.getState().userLocation
+    if (loc) {
+      createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, loc.lat, loc.lon, null)
+    }
+
+    if (!watchIdRef.current) {
+      watchIdRef.current = navigator.geolocation.watchPosition(
+        (pos) => {
+          const { latitude, longitude, heading } = pos.coords
+          useStore.getState().setUserLocation({ lat: latitude, lon: longitude })
+          createOrUpdateGpsMarker(map, latitude, longitude, heading)
+        },
+        () => {},
+        { enableHighAccuracy: true, maximumAge: 5000 }
+      )
+    }
+  }, [geoPermission])
+
+    // Swap map theme when store.theme changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map || currentThemeRef.current === theme) return
+
+    currentThemeRef.current = theme
+    const center = map.getCenter()
+    const zoom = map.getZoom()
+    const bearing = map.getBearing()
+    const pitch = map.getPitch()
+
+    map.setStyle(buildStyle(theme), { diff: false })
+
+    // Re-add sources/layers after style swap
+    map.once('style.load', () => {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] },
+      })
+
+      // Re-add active overlay layers
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.hillshade) addHillshade(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.traffic) addTraffic(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.publicLands) addPublicLands(map)
+      if (activeLayersRef.current.contours) addContours(map)
+
+      // Restore view
+      map.jumpTo({ center, zoom, bearing, pitch })
+      // Re-render route if exists
+      const currentRoute = useStore.getState().route
+      if (currentRoute) updateRoute(map, currentRoute)
+    })
+  }, [theme])
+
+  // Preview pin for selected place
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old preview marker
+    if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+      previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+      previewMarkerRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    if (!selectedPlace) return
+
+    // Only fly to place if it came from search (not map-click which already centered)
+    if (selectedPlace.source !== 'map_click') {
+      map.flyTo({ center: [selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat], zoom: 14, duration: 800 })
+    }
+
+    // Create preview marker
+    const el = document.createElement('div')
+    el.className = 'navi-pin-preview'
+    previewMarkerRef.current = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+      .setLngLat([selectedPlace.lon, selectedPlace.lat])
+      .addTo(map)
+
+    return () => {
+      if (previewMarkerRef.current) {
+        previewMarkerRef.current.remove()
+        previewMarkerRef.current = null
+      }
+    }
+  }, [selectedPlace])
+
+  // Update route polyline when route changes
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+    if (!map.isStyleLoaded()) {
+      const handler = () => updateRoute(map, route)
+      map.once('load', handler)
+      return () => map.off('load', handler)
+    }
+    updateRoute(map, route)
+  }, [route])
+
+  function updateRoute(map, routeData) {
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old route layers
+    const style = map.getStyle()
+    if (style) {
+      for (const layer of style.layers) {
+        if (layer.id.startsWith(ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX)) {
+          map.removeLayer(layer.id)
+        }
+      }
+    }
+
+    if (!routeData || !routeData.legs) {
+      if (map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)) {
+        map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE).setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features: [] })
+      }
+      return
+    }
+
+    const features = []
+    for (let i = 0; i < routeData.legs.length; i++) {
+      const leg = routeData.legs[i]
+      if (!leg.shape) continue
+      const coords = decodePolyline(leg.shape, 6)
+      features.push({
+        type: 'Feature',
+        properties: { legIndex: i },
+        geometry: { type: 'LineString', coordinates: coords },
+      })
+    }
+
+    const source = map.getSource(ROUTE_SOURCE)
+    if (source) {
+      source.setData({ type: 'FeatureCollection', features })
+    } else {
+      map.addSource(ROUTE_SOURCE, {
+        type: 'geojson',
+        data: { type: 'FeatureCollection', features },
+      })
+    }
+
+    // Use CSS variable for route color (read computed value)
+    const routeColor = getComputedStyle(document.documentElement).getPropertyValue('--route-line').trim()
+
+    for (let i = 0; i < features.length; i++) {
+      const layerId = `${ROUTE_LAYER_PREFIX}${i}`
+      if (!map.getLayer(layerId)) {
+        map.addLayer({
+          id: layerId,
+          type: 'line',
+          source: ROUTE_SOURCE,
+          filter: ['==', ['get', 'legIndex'], i],
+          layout: { 'line-join': 'round', 'line-cap': 'round' },
+          paint: {
+            'line-color': routeColor || '#7a9a6b',
+            'line-width': 5,
+            'line-opacity': 0.85,
+          },
+        })
+      }
+    }
+
+    // Fit bounds to route
+    if (features.length > 0) {
+      const allCoords = features.flatMap((f) => f.geometry.coordinates)
+      const bounds = allCoords.reduce(
+        (b, c) => b.extend(c),
+        new maplibregl.LngLatBounds(allCoords[0], allCoords[0])
+      )
+      const hasDetail = useStore.getState().selectedPlace != null
+      const leftPad = hasDetail ? 700 : 340
+      map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: leftPad, right: 60 } })
+    }
+  }
+
+  // Update stop markers when stops change
+  useEffect(() => {
+    const map = mapInstance.current
+    if (!map) return
+
+    // Remove old markers
+    for (const m of markersRef.current) m.remove()
+    markersRef.current = []
+    if (popupRef.current) {
+      popupRef.current.remove()
+      popupRef.current = null
+    }
+
+    const hasGpsOrigin = gpsOrigin && geoPermission === 'granted'
+    const indexOffset = hasGpsOrigin ? 1 : 0
+
+    stops.forEach((stop, i) => {
+      const displayIndex = i + indexOffset
+      const effectiveTotal = stops.length + indexOffset
+
+      let pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--intermediate'
+      if (displayIndex === 0) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--origin'
+      else if (displayIndex === effectiveTotal - 1 && effectiveTotal > 1) pinClass = 'navi-pin navi-pin--destination'
+
+      const label = String.fromCharCode(65 + Math.min(displayIndex, 25))
+
+      const el = document.createElement('div')
+      el.className = pinClass
+      el.textContent = label
+
+      el.addEventListener('click', (e) => {
+        e.stopPropagation()
+        // Flag so the map-level click handler doesn't fire
+        pinClickedRef.current = true
+        if (popupRef.current) popupRef.current.remove()
+        const popup = new maplibregl.Popup({ offset: 20, closeButton: true })
+          .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+          .setHTML(
+            `<div style="font-size:12px;max-width:200px">
+              <strong>${stop.name}</strong>
+              <br/><button id="remove-stop-${stop.id}" style="margin-top:4px;padding:2px 8px;background:var(--status-danger);border:none;border-radius:4px;color:white;cursor:pointer;font-size:11px">Remove</button>
+            </div>`
+          )
+          .addTo(map)
+
+        popup.getElement().querySelector(`#remove-stop-${stop.id}`)?.addEventListener('click', () => {
+          useStore.getState().removeStop(stop.id)
+          popup.remove()
+        })
+        popupRef.current = popup
+      })
+
+      const marker = new maplibregl.Marker({ element: el })
+        .setLngLat([stop.lon, stop.lat])
+        .addTo(map)
+
+      markersRef.current.push(marker)
+    })
+
+    // If stops but no route yet, fit to stops
+    if (stops.length > 0 && !route) {
+      if (stops.length === 1) {
+        map.flyTo({ center: [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], zoom: 13 })
+      } else {
+        const bounds = stops.reduce(
+          (b, s) => b.extend([s.lon, s.lat]),
+          new maplibregl.LngLatBounds([stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat], [stops[0].lon, stops[0].lat])
+        )
+        map.fitBounds(bounds, { padding: { top: 60, bottom: 60, left: 340, right: 60 } })
+      }
+    }
+  }, [stops, route, gpsOrigin, geoPermission])
+
+  return <div ref={mapRef} className="w-full h-full" />
+})
+
+export default MapView
diff --git a/src/components/RadialMenu.jsx b/src/components/RadialMenu.jsx
index fa411b3..ba5d72e 100644
--- a/src/components/RadialMenu.jsx
+++ b/src/components/RadialMenu.jsx
@@ -4,6 +4,7 @@ import { Lock } from 'lucide-react'
 
 /**
  * RadialMenu - ATAK-style radial context menu
+ * Themed to match Navi light/dark palette using CSS custom properties.
  *
  * Props:
  * - open: boolean
@@ -138,17 +139,11 @@ export default function RadialMenu({
 
   const content = (
     <>
-      {/* Full-screen transparent backdrop for dismiss */}
+      {/* Full-screen backdrop for dismiss — matches modal overlay opacity */}
       <div
+        className="radial-backdrop"
         onClick={handleBackdropClick}
         onContextMenu={handleBackdropClick}
-        style={{
-          position: 'fixed',
-          inset: 0,
-          zIndex: 9998,
-          background: 'transparent',
-          cursor: 'default',
-        }}
       />
 
       {/* Radial menu container */}
@@ -163,6 +158,7 @@ export default function RadialMenu({
           zIndex: 9999,
           transform: 'translate(-50%, -50%)',
           animation: 'radialFadeIn 100ms ease-out',
+          filter: 'drop-shadow(var(--shadow-lg))',
         }}
         onMouseMove={handlePointerMove}
         onMouseUp={handlePointerUp}
@@ -183,35 +179,43 @@ export default function RadialMenu({
               <g key={wedge.id} className="radial-wedge" data-wedge-id={wedge.id}>
                 <path
                   d={generateWedgePath(i)}
-                  fill="rgba(30, 28, 26, 0.85)"
-                  stroke="rgba(180, 160, 140, 0.3)"
-                  strokeWidth="1"
-                  style={{ transition: 'fill 100ms ease' }}
                   className="wedge-path"
                 />
                 <g transform={`translate(${iconPos.x}, ${iconPos.y})`}>
                   {Icon && (
-                    <Icon
-                      size={18}
-                      stroke="rgba(230, 220, 210, 0.9)"
-                      strokeWidth={1.5}
-                      style={{ transform: 'translate(-9px, -12px)' }}
-                    />
+                    <foreignObject
+                      x={-9}
+                      y={-12}
+                      width={18}
+                      height={18}
+                      style={{ overflow: 'visible' }}
+                    >
+                      <Icon
+                        size={18}
+                        className="wedge-icon"
+                        strokeWidth={1.5}
+                      />
+                    </foreignObject>
                   )}
                   {wedge.requiresAuth && (
-                    <Lock
-                      size={10}
-                      stroke="rgba(230, 220, 210, 0.6)"
-                      strokeWidth={1.5}
-                      style={{ transform: 'translate(4px, -14px)' }}
-                    />
+                    <foreignObject
+                      x={4}
+                      y={-14}
+                      width={10}
+                      height={10}
+                      style={{ overflow: 'visible' }}
+                    >
+                      <Lock
+                        size={10}
+                        className="wedge-lock"
+                        strokeWidth={1.5}
+                      />
+                    </foreignObject>
                   )}
                   <text
                     y={10}
                     textAnchor="middle"
-                    fontSize="9"
-                    fill="rgba(230, 220, 210, 0.8)"
-                    style={{ pointerEvents: 'none', userSelect: 'none' }}
+                    className="wedge-label"
                   >
                     {wedge.label}
                   </text>
@@ -225,25 +229,19 @@ export default function RadialMenu({
             cx={0}
             cy={0}
             r={innerRadius - 2}
-            fill="rgba(50, 45, 40, 0.95)"
-            stroke="rgba(180, 160, 140, 0.4)"
-            strokeWidth="1"
+            className="center-disc"
           />
           <text
             y={-4}
             textAnchor="middle"
-            fontSize="10"
-            fontFamily="monospace"
-            fill="rgba(230, 220, 210, 0.9)"
+            className="center-coords"
           >
             {lat?.toFixed(4)}
           </text>
           <text
             y={8}
             textAnchor="middle"
-            fontSize="10"
-            fontFamily="monospace"
-            fill="rgba(230, 220, 210, 0.9)"
+            className="center-coords"
           >
             {lon?.toFixed(4)}
           </text>
@@ -251,9 +249,7 @@ export default function RadialMenu({
             <text
               y={20}
               textAnchor="middle"
-              fontSize="9"
-              fill="rgba(200, 180, 160, 0.9)"
-              style={{ fontStyle: 'italic' }}
+              className="center-label"
             >
               {centerLabel.length > 15 ? centerLabel.slice(0, 15) + '…' : centerLabel}
             </text>
@@ -261,12 +257,87 @@ export default function RadialMenu({
         </svg>
 
         <style>{`
-          .radial-wedge.active .wedge-path {
-            fill: rgba(180, 160, 140, 0.4) !important;
+          /* Backdrop — matches modal overlay */
+          .radial-backdrop {
+            position: fixed;
+            inset: 0;
+            z-index: 9998;
+            background: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.4);
+            cursor: default;
           }
+
+          /* Wedge paths — themed surface */
+          .wedge-path {
+            fill: var(--bg-overlay);
+            fill-opacity: 0.92;
+            stroke: var(--border);
+            stroke-width: 1;
+            transition: fill 100ms ease, fill-opacity 100ms ease;
+          }
+
           .radial-wedge:hover .wedge-path {
-            fill: rgba(180, 160, 140, 0.3);
+            fill: var(--accent-muted);
+            fill-opacity: 1;
           }
+
+          .radial-wedge.active .wedge-path {
+            fill: var(--accent-muted);
+            fill-opacity: 1;
+          }
+
+          /* Wedge icons — secondary text color */
+          .wedge-icon {
+            color: var(--text-secondary);
+            transition: color 100ms ease;
+          }
+
+          .radial-wedge:hover .wedge-icon,
+          .radial-wedge.active .wedge-icon {
+            color: var(--text-primary);
+          }
+
+          /* Lock icon — tertiary/muted */
+          .wedge-lock {
+            color: var(--text-tertiary);
+          }
+
+          /* Wedge labels — secondary text */
+          .wedge-label {
+            font-family: var(--font-sans);
+            font-size: 9px;
+            fill: var(--text-secondary);
+            pointer-events: none;
+            user-select: none;
+            transition: fill 100ms ease;
+          }
+
+          .radial-wedge:hover .wedge-label,
+          .radial-wedge.active .wedge-label {
+            fill: var(--text-primary);
+          }
+
+          /* Center disc — raised surface */
+          .center-disc {
+            fill: var(--bg-raised);
+            stroke: var(--border);
+            stroke-width: 1;
+          }
+
+          /* Center coordinates — monospace primary */
+          .center-coords {
+            font-family: var(--font-mono);
+            font-size: 10px;
+            fill: var(--text-primary);
+          }
+
+          /* Center label — secondary italic */
+          .center-label {
+            font-family: var(--font-sans);
+            font-size: 9px;
+            font-style: italic;
+            fill: var(--text-secondary);
+          }
+
           @keyframes radialFadeIn {
             from { opacity: 0; transform: translate(-50%, -50%) scale(0.9); }
             to { opacity: 1; transform: translate(-50%, -50%) scale(1); }
diff --git a/src/components/SearchBar.jsx.bak.viewport b/src/components/SearchBar.jsx.bak.viewport
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..732c865
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/components/SearchBar.jsx.bak.viewport
@@ -0,0 +1,319 @@
+import { useRef, useEffect, useCallback, useState, forwardRef, useImperativeHandle } from 'react'
+import { MapPin, Building2, Star, Crosshair, Coffee, Fuel, ShoppingBag, Hotel, X, User } from 'lucide-react'
+import toast from 'react-hot-toast'
+import { useStore } from '../store'
+import { buildAddress } from '../utils/place'
+import { searchGeocode } from '../api'
+import { hasFeature } from '../config'
+
+/** Get category icon based on result type/source */
+function CategoryIcon({ result }) {
+  const type = result.type || ''
+  const source = result.source || ''
+  const size = 14
+
+  if (result._isContact) return <User size={size} />
+  if (source === 'nickname') return <Star size={size} />
+  if (type === 'coordinates') return <Crosshair size={size} />
+  if (type === 'locality' || type === 'city') return <Building2 size={size} />
+
+  // POI subcategories from osm_value if available
+  const osmVal = result.raw?.osm_value || ''
+  if (osmVal.includes('cafe') || osmVal.includes('coffee')) return <Coffee size={size} />
+  if (osmVal.includes('fuel') || osmVal.includes('gas')) return <Fuel size={size} />
+  if (osmVal.includes('shop') || osmVal.includes('supermarket')) return <ShoppingBag size={size} />
+  if (osmVal.includes('hotel') || osmVal.includes('motel')) return <Hotel size={size} />
+
+  return <MapPin size={size} />
+}
+
+const SearchBar = forwardRef(function SearchBar(_, ref) {
+  const inputRef = useRef(null)
+  const [activeIndex, setActiveIndex] = useState(-1)
+  const debounceRef = useRef(null)
+
+  useImperativeHandle(ref, () => ({
+    focus: () => inputRef.current?.focus(),
+  }))
+
+  const query = useStore((s) => s.query)
+  const results = useStore((s) => s.results)
+  const searchLoading = useStore((s) => s.searchLoading)
+  const autocompleteOpen = useStore((s) => s.autocompleteOpen)
+  const stops = useStore((s) => s.stops)
+  const pendingDestination = useStore((s) => s.pendingDestination)
+  const contacts = useStore((s) => s.contacts)
+  const setQuery = useStore((s) => s.setQuery)
+  const setResults = useStore((s) => s.setResults)
+  const setSearchLoading = useStore((s) => s.setSearchLoading)
+  const setAbortController = useStore((s) => s.setAbortController)
+  const setAutocompleteOpen = useStore((s) => s.setAutocompleteOpen)
+  const addStop = useStore((s) => s.addStop)
+  const setSelectedPlace = useStore((s) => s.setSelectedPlace)
+  const setEditingContact = useStore((s) => s.setEditingContact)
+  const clearPendingDestination = useStore((s) => s.clearPendingDestination)
+
+  useEffect(() => {
+    inputRef.current?.focus()
+  }, [])
+
+  const doSearch = useCallback(
+    async (q) => {
+      const prev = useStore.getState().abortController
+      if (prev) prev.abort()
+
+      if (!q.trim()) {
+        setResults([])
+        setAutocompleteOpen(false)
+        setSearchLoading(false)
+        return
+      }
+
+      // Prepend matching contacts
+      let contactResults = []
+      if (hasFeature('has_contacts') && contacts.length > 0) {
+        const lower = q.trim().toLowerCase()
+        contactResults = contacts
+          .filter((c) =>
+            (c.label || '').toLowerCase().startsWith(lower) ||
+            (c.name || '').toLowerCase().startsWith(lower) ||
+            (c.call_sign || '').toLowerCase().startsWith(lower)
+          )
+          .slice(0, 3)
+          .map((c) => ({
+            lat: c.lat,
+            lon: c.lon,
+            name: c.label,
+            address: c.address || c.name || '',
+            type: 'contact',
+            source: 'contacts',
+            match_code: null,
+            raw: { osm_type: c.osm_type, osm_id: c.osm_id, contact: c },
+            _isContact: true,
+          }))
+      }
+
+      const ctrl = new AbortController()
+      setAbortController(ctrl)
+      setSearchLoading(true)
+
+      try {
+        const data = await searchGeocode(q.trim(), 6, ctrl.signal)
+        const combined = [...contactResults, ...(data.results || [])]
+        setResults(combined)
+        setAutocompleteOpen(combined.length > 0)
+        setActiveIndex(-1)
+      } catch (e) {
+        if (e.name !== 'AbortError') {
+          // Still show contacts even if geocode fails
+          if (contactResults.length > 0) {
+            setResults(contactResults)
+            setAutocompleteOpen(true)
+          } else {
+            setResults([])
+            setAutocompleteOpen(false)
+          }
+        }
+      } finally {
+        setSearchLoading(false)
+      }
+    },
+    [setResults, setAutocompleteOpen, setSearchLoading, setAbortController, contacts]
+  )
+
+  const handleChange = (e) => {
+    const val = e.target.value
+    setQuery(val)
+    if (debounceRef.current) clearTimeout(debounceRef.current)
+    debounceRef.current = setTimeout(() => doSearch(val), 150)
+  }
+
+  const handleClear = () => {
+    setQuery('')
+    setResults([])
+    setAutocompleteOpen(false)
+    inputRef.current?.focus()
+  }
+
+  const selectResult = (result) => {
+    const { pendingDestination: pending } = useStore.getState()
+
+    // Pure contact (no geo) → open edit modal
+    if (result._isContact && result.lat == null) {
+      setEditingContact(result.raw.contact)
+      setQuery('')
+      setResults([])
+      setAutocompleteOpen(false)
+      setActiveIndex(-1)
+      return
+    }
+
+    if (pending) {
+      addStop({ lat: result.lat, lon: result.lon, name: result.name, source: result.source, matchCode: result.match_code })
+      addStop({ lat: pending.lat, lon: pending.lon, name: pending.name, source: pending.source, matchCode: pending.matchCode })
+      clearPendingDestination()
+      toast(`Routing from ${result.name} to ${pending.name}`, { icon: '\u{1F9ED}' })
+    } else {
+      setSelectedPlace({
+        lat: result.lat,
+        lon: result.lon,
+        name: result.name,
+        address: result.address || null,
+        type: result.type,
+        source: result.source,
+        matchCode: result.match_code,
+        raw: result.raw || {},
+      })
+    }
+
+    setQuery('')
+    setResults([])
+    setAutocompleteOpen(false)
+    setActiveIndex(-1)
+    inputRef.current?.focus()
+  }
+
+  const handleKeyDown = (e) => {
+    if (!autocompleteOpen || results.length === 0) {
+      if (e.key === 'Escape') setAutocompleteOpen(false)
+      return
+    }
+
+    switch (e.key) {
+      case 'ArrowDown':
+        e.preventDefault()
+        setActiveIndex((prev) => Math.min(prev + 1, results.length - 1))
+        break
+      case 'ArrowUp':
+        e.preventDefault()
+        setActiveIndex((prev) => Math.max(prev - 1, -1))
+        break
+      case 'Enter':
+        e.preventDefault()
+        if (activeIndex >= 0 && activeIndex < results.length) {
+          selectResult(results[activeIndex])
+        }
+        break
+      case 'Escape':
+        e.preventDefault()
+        setAutocompleteOpen(false)
+        setActiveIndex(-1)
+        break
+    }
+  }
+
+  const atCap = stops.length >= 10
+
+  return (
+    <div className="relative">
+      <div className="relative">
+        <input
+          ref={inputRef}
+          type="text"
+          value={query}
+          onChange={handleChange}
+          onKeyDown={handleKeyDown}
+          onFocus={() => results.length > 0 && setAutocompleteOpen(true)}
+          placeholder={atCap ? 'Max 10 stops reached' : pendingDestination ? 'Starting point...' : 'Search for a place...'}
+          disabled={atCap}
+          className="navi-input w-full pr-8"
+          aria-label="Search places"
+          aria-expanded={autocompleteOpen}
+          aria-autocomplete="list"
+          role="combobox"
+        />
+        {/* Clear / Loading indicator */}
+        <div className="absolute right-2.5 top-1/2 -translate-y-1/2">
+          {searchLoading ? (
+            <div
+              className="w-4 h-4 border-2 border-t-transparent rounded-full animate-spin"
+              style={{ borderColor: 'var(--accent)', borderTopColor: 'transparent' }}
+            />
+          ) : query ? (
+            <button
+              onClick={handleClear}
+              className="p-0.5"
+              style={{ color: 'var(--text-tertiary)' }}
+              aria-label="Clear search"
+            >
+              <X size={14} />
+            </button>
+          ) : null}
+        </div>
+      </div>
+
+      {/* Autocomplete dropdown */}
+      {autocompleteOpen && results.length > 0 && (
+        <ul
+          className="absolute z-50 mt-1 w-full rounded-lg overflow-hidden max-h-72 overflow-y-auto"
+          style={{
+            background: 'var(--bg-overlay)',
+            border: '1px solid var(--border)',
+            boxShadow: 'var(--shadow-lg)',
+          }}
+          role="listbox"
+        >
+          {results.map((r, i) => {
+            const isPoi = r.type === 'poi' && r.raw?.name
+            const isContact = r._isContact
+            const primary = isContact ? r.name : isPoi ? r.raw.name : r.name
+            const secondary = isContact ? (r.address || '') : isPoi ? buildAddress(r) : null
+            return (
+            <li
+              key={`${r.lat}-${r.lon}-${i}`}
+              role="option"
+              aria-selected={i === activeIndex}
+              className="px-3 py-2 cursor-pointer text-sm"
+              style={{
+                background: i === activeIndex
+                  ? 'var(--accent-muted)'
+                  : isContact
+                    ? 'var(--accent-muted)'
+                    : 'transparent',
+                borderBottom: i < results.length - 1 ? '1px solid var(--border-subtle)' : 'none',
+                opacity: isContact && i !== activeIndex ? 0.85 : 1,
+              }}
+              onClick={() => selectResult(r)}
+              onMouseEnter={() => setActiveIndex(i)}
+            >
+              <div className="flex items-center gap-2">
+                <span className="shrink-0" style={{ color: isContact ? 'var(--accent)' : 'var(--text-tertiary)' }}>
+                  <CategoryIcon result={r} />
+                </span>
+                <span className="truncate flex-1" style={{ color: 'var(--text-primary)' }}>
+                  {primary}
+                </span>
+                <span className="flex items-center gap-1.5 shrink-0">
+                  {isContact && (
+                    <span
+                      className="text-[10px] px-1.5 py-0.5 rounded font-medium"
+                      style={{ background: 'var(--accent-muted)', color: 'var(--accent)' }}
+                    >
+                      saved
+                    </span>
+                  )}
+                  {r.match_code?.housenumber === 'matched' && (
+                    <span
+                      className="text-[10px] px-1.5 py-0.5 rounded font-medium"
+                      style={{ background: 'var(--accent-muted)', color: 'var(--accent)' }}
+                    >
+                      exact
+                    </span>
+                  )}
+                </span>
+              </div>
+              {secondary && (
+                <div className="text-[11px] mt-0.5 ml-6 truncate" style={{ color: 'var(--text-tertiary)' }}>
+                  {secondary}
+                </div>
+              )}
+            </li>
+            )
+          })}
+        </ul>
+      )}
+    </div>
+  )
+})
+
+export default SearchBar
diff --git a/src/config.js b/src/config.js
index 0bb7c74..80c471a 100644
--- a/src/config.js
+++ b/src/config.js
@@ -30,6 +30,8 @@ const FALLBACK_CONFIG = {
     has_landclass: false,
     has_public_lands_layer: false,
     has_contours: true,
+    has_contours_test: true,
+    has_contours_test_10ft: true,
     has_address_book_write: false,
     has_contacts: false,
   },
diff --git a/src/config.js.bak b/src/config.js.bak
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0d84fe4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/config.js.bak
@@ -0,0 +1,86 @@
+/**
+ * Deployment config loader.
+ *
+ * Fetches /api/config on startup and caches the result.
+ * Falls back to hardcoded defaults matching the home profile if the
+ * API is unavailable (backend restart, network issue).
+ */
+
+const FALLBACK_CONFIG = {
+  profile: 'home',
+  region_name: 'North America',
+  tileset: {
+    url: '/tiles/na.pmtiles',
+    bounds: [-168, 14, -52, 72],
+    max_zoom: 15,
+    attribution: 'Protomaps © OSM',
+  },
+  services: {
+    geocode: '/api/geocode',
+    reverse: '/api/reverse',
+    address_book: '/api/address_book',
+    valhalla: '/valhalla',
+  },
+  features: {
+    has_nominatim_details: false,
+    has_kiwix_wiki: false,
+    has_hillshade: false,
+    has_3d_terrain: false,
+    has_traffic_overlay: false,
+    has_landclass: false,
+    has_public_lands_layer: false,
+    has_address_book_write: false,
+    has_contacts: false,
+  },
+  defaults: {
+    center: [42.5736, -114.6066],
+    zoom: 10,
+  },
+}
+
+let _config = null
+let _configPromise = null
+
+/**
+ * Fetch config from backend. Returns cached config on subsequent calls.
+ * Falls back to FALLBACK_CONFIG if API fails.
+ */
+export function loadConfig() {
+  if (_configPromise) return _configPromise
+
+  _configPromise = fetch('/api/config', { signal: AbortSignal.timeout(3000) })
+    .then((resp) => {
+      if (!resp.ok) throw new Error(`Config API returned ${resp.status}`)
+      return resp.json()
+    })
+    .then((data) => {
+      _config = data
+      console.log('[navi] Config loaded:', data.profile, `(${data.region_name})`)
+      console.log('[navi] Feature flags:', data.features)
+      return data
+    })
+    .catch((err) => {
+      console.warn('[navi] Config API unavailable, using fallback:', err.message)
+      _config = FALLBACK_CONFIG
+      return FALLBACK_CONFIG
+    })
+
+  return _configPromise
+}
+
+/**
+ * Get the current config synchronously. Returns null if not yet loaded.
+ */
+export function getConfig() {
+  return _config
+}
+
+/**
+ * Check a feature flag from the loaded config.
+ * @param {string} flag - Feature flag name (e.g. 'has_hillshade')
+ * @returns {boolean}
+ */
+export function hasFeature(flag) {
+  if (!_config) return false
+  return Boolean(_config.features?.[flag])
+}
diff --git a/src/store.js.bak.viewport b/src/store.js.bak.viewport
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1dec344
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/store.js.bak.viewport
@@ -0,0 +1,114 @@
+import { create } from 'zustand'
+
+export const useStore = create((set, get) => ({
+  // ── Search state ──
+  query: '',
+  results: [],
+  searchLoading: false,
+  abortController: null,
+
+  setQuery: (query) => set({ query }),
+  setResults: (results) => set({ results }),
+  setSearchLoading: (loading) => set({ searchLoading: loading }),
+  setAbortController: (ctrl) => set({ abortController: ctrl }),
+
+  // ── Stop list ──
+  stops: [],
+  // Each stop: { id, lat, lon, name, source, matchCode, isOrigin }
+
+  addStop: (stop) => {
+    const { stops } = get()
+    if (stops.length >= 10) return false
+    set({ stops: [...stops, { ...stop, id: crypto.randomUUID() }] })
+    return true
+  },
+
+  removeStop: (id) => {
+    set({ stops: get().stops.filter((s) => s.id !== id) })
+  },
+
+  reorderStops: (newStops) => set({ stops: newStops }),
+
+  clearStops: () => set({ stops: [] }),
+
+  setStops: (stops) => set({ stops }),
+
+  // ── Geolocation ──
+  userLocation: null, // { lat, lon }
+  geoPermission: 'prompt', // 'prompt' | 'granted' | 'denied'
+
+  setUserLocation: (loc) => set({ userLocation: loc }),
+  setGeoPermission: (p) => set({ geoPermission: p }),
+
+  // ── Mode ──
+  mode: 'auto', // 'auto' | 'pedestrian' | 'bicycle'
+  setMode: (mode) => set({ mode }),
+
+  // ── Route ──
+  route: null, // Valhalla response (trip object)
+  routeLoading: false,
+  routeError: null,
+
+  setRoute: (route) => set({ route, routeError: null }),
+  setRouteLoading: (loading) => set({ routeLoading: loading }),
+  setRouteError: (err) => set({ routeError: err, route: null }),
+  clearRoute: () => set({ route: null, routeError: null }),
+
+  // ── Place detail ──
+  selectedPlace: null, // { lat, lon, name, address, type, source, matchCode, raw }
+  gpsOrigin: true, // whether GPS should be used as origin when available
+  pendingDestination: null, // place waiting for a starting point (GPS-denied Directions flow)
+
+  setSelectedPlace: (place) => set({ selectedPlace: place }),
+  clearSelectedPlace: () => set({ selectedPlace: null }),
+  setGpsOrigin: (val) => set({ gpsOrigin: val }),
+  setPendingDestination: (place) => set({ pendingDestination: place }),
+  clearPendingDestination: () => set({ pendingDestination: null }),
+
+  startDirections: (place) => {
+    const { geoPermission, stops, addStop, clearStops } = get()
+    if (geoPermission === 'granted') {
+      clearStops()
+      addStop({ lat: place.lat, lon: place.lon, name: place.name, source: place.source, matchCode: place.matchCode })
+      set({ gpsOrigin: true, selectedPlace: null })
+    } else if (stops.length > 0) {
+      const origin = stops[0]
+      clearStops()
+      addStop({ lat: origin.lat, lon: origin.lon, name: origin.name, source: origin.source, matchCode: origin.matchCode })
+      addStop({ lat: place.lat, lon: place.lon, name: place.name, source: place.source, matchCode: place.matchCode })
+      set({ selectedPlace: null })
+    } else {
+      set({ pendingDestination: place, selectedPlace: null })
+    }
+  },
+
+  // ── UI state ──
+  sheetState: 'half', // 'collapsed' | 'half' | 'full'
+  panelOpen: true,
+  autocompleteOpen: false,
+  theme: 'dark', // 'dark' | 'light' (resolved value — what's actually applied)
+  themeOverride: null, // null | 'dark' | 'light' (manual override, persisted)
+
+  setSheetState: (s) => set({ sheetState: s }),
+  setPanelOpen: (open) => set({ panelOpen: open }),
+  setAutocompleteOpen: (open) => set({ autocompleteOpen: open }),
+  setTheme: (theme) => set({ theme }),
+  setThemeOverride: (override) => {
+    set({ themeOverride: override })
+    if (override) {
+      localStorage.setItem('navi-theme-override', override)
+    } else {
+      localStorage.removeItem('navi-theme-override')
+    }
+  },
+  // ── Contacts ──
+  contacts: [],
+  contactsLoaded: false,
+  activeTab: 'routes', // 'routes' | 'contacts'
+  editingContact: null, // null=closed, {}=new, {id:N}=edit
+
+  setContacts: (c) => set({ contacts: c, contactsLoaded: true }),
+  setActiveTab: (tab) => set({ activeTab: tab }),
+  setEditingContact: (c) => set({ editingContact: c }),
+  clearEditingContact: () => set({ editingContact: null }),
+}))
diff --git a/src/utils/place.js b/src/utils/place.js
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a66c7d3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/src/utils/place.js
@@ -0,0 +1,10 @@
+/** Build display address from raw result data */
+export function buildAddress(place) {
+  if (place.address) return place.address
+  const raw = place.raw || {}
+  const street = raw.housenumber && raw.street
+    ? `${raw.housenumber} ${raw.street}`
+    : raw.street
+  const parts = [street, raw.city, raw.state, raw.postcode].filter(Boolean)
+  return parts.join(', ') || null
+}